Wine: Ignore at your peril

2009 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumatao Gewurztraminer, $29.99. Photo / Natalie Slade

It remains a matter of great concern and deep disappointment to me that one of our most versatile and delightful food wines continues to be given a wide berth. Even more distressing, it's a variety that we now excel at and which is readily available - at a decent price.

Come in, gewurztraminer, it's about time you had your chance to shine.

Drop all existing prejudices and memories of over-sweet sugar bombs and wines that seem to dissolve before your eyes in the glass.

It is unbelievable how many Asian-style eateries have wine lists littered with popular - but woefully inadequate and inappropriate - white wines to match their delicate, spicy, floral and flavoursome cuisine. Cull the sauvignon list, add a couple of gewurztraminers to elevate and enhance the gentle but striking flavours of the East.

Consider the aromas that a good gewurztraminer will offer ... cinnamon, clove, jasmine, lavender, lime, rosewater, ginger, anise and citrus blossom. Flavours that should burst on the palate include lychee, potpourri, mint, passionfruit, roses, toffee apple, black pepper, turkish delight, sherbert and an astonishing array of spices.

This is a white wine that when not overly chilled will embrace and at the same time release the similar flavours of Asian/Pacific rim food.

A past criticism of local product has been that our wines lacked the voluptuousness and richness of this grape's spiritual home in Alsace, France. Because the grape is a bit of a prima donna and can turn ugly at the slightest wind change or sudden drop in temperature, a lot of winemakers have put it in the too hard basket and given up.

But those who have persevered and taken care in the vineyard, especially with regard to reducing crop levels to encourage concentrated flavours, are being rewarded.

The resultant wines are sublime. Big on heady, engaging aromas with strong, balanced flavours and lip-smacking texture, they induce a level of excitement too often lacking in a lot of our other more industrialised white varieties.

Gewurztraminer is a wine for anyone seeking a multidimensional taste sensation and who is prepared to try something different. It is also the perfect aperitif.

RECOMMENDED

2009 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ihumatao Gewurztraminer, $29.99
From grapes grown not far from the Auckland Airport and known for producing outstanding gewurz. Elegant, gentle and with all the Villa Maria's usual excellence.

2007 Huntaway Reserve Gisborne Gewurztraminer, $24
Gisborne does this variety well and has a good deal of the country's plantings. A medium-dry style, harmonious and mouth-filling, with a gentle, oily texture and smooth finish.