Wine: Experience shows

2008 Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir $59. Photo / Greg Bowker

"It's a joy to get to this stage and there's been a seamless transition from Tim to John." Judy Finn of Nelson vineyard, Neudorf, is addressing wine literati at a 30th celebratory luncheon at Auckland's best-known fine dining restaurant, the French Cafe.

Tim is her husband and chief winemaker from the early days, and John Kavanagh is the current holder of the torch.

"Seamless" is an appropriate word, because it describes perfectly the wines of one of the country's most-revered producers.

For a remarkable 30 years Neudorf has been delivering wines of integrity, intelligence and wonderful consistency. Tim Finn was a research scientist at Te Kauwhata in the 1970s, experimenting with new grape varieties and seeking new planting locations.

"We were looking for a Burgundy way of life and we found that at Neudorf. We planted in 1978 and it was very much a learning experience. Growing grapes in the South Island is different from growing them elsewhere. Initially we did all the wrong things - overcropping, not getting the canopy right, but you learn quickly."

Kavanagh concurs. "Nelson is not the easiest place to make great wine. But we have the passion [and] the winemaking has evolved but not changed hugely. We're looking for consistency."

The Neudorf philosophy is simple, the vineyard is the thing, and you need to understand your vineyard.

Says Finn, "Latterly we've been able to produce more consistent fruit. You get that right and you can make good wine."

Chardonnay has been Neudorf's calling card but they also produce a pinot noir that Finn describes as left-bank - more savoury and more European. There are smart pinot gris, sauvignon blancs, and a drop-dead gorgeous riesling that Finn describes as "a winemaker's driven style, beautiful and pure. We're not trying to turn it into something it's not."

Neudorf has trophies and accolades galore, plus they have three wines listed at one of the world's great restaurants, London's Fat Duck.

But after 30 years, you get the impression they just want to enjoy the fruits of their labour, and the best has yet to come.

RECOMMENDED

2009 Neudorf Moutere Pinot Gris $30
According to winemaker Kavanagh, "a wine that reflects the deep roots of what we get from the soil". Intense flavours, smooth and mellow with ribbons of spice and quince.

2008 Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir $59
Subtle, playful, complex and savoury with understated cherry and plum flavours and a mosaic of herbs. A rich, ravishing wine, which is divine with duck.