Wine: Ata Rangi

2008 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, $65. Photo / Supplied

Clive Paton didn't know it at the time, but when he was slinking off for a red wine while his mates swilled beer in their student days, he was laying the foundations for his future career. Not his first career as a share-milker, but his life-changing one as winemaker and founder of Ata Rangi wines.

Ata Rangi means "new beginning", and Paton found one while working on a farm in southern Wairarapa when he read that Martinborough was deemed a suitable wine region by experts.

After a day trip there, he found a piece of land, quit farming and within two months had moved to his new home; Ata Rangi.

Today, Paton is New Zealand's top pinot noir maker. It's easy to dispute that when there are so many good local pinot noirs, but Ata Rangi's is the most consistent and has the longest track record for unwavering high quality.

Paton grew up in a semi-rural household with wine regularly on the dinner table. It worked its magic on Paton's young palate, giving him a passion for good wine.

Seven years after he began Ata Rangi, Paton met his partner in life and business, Phyll Pattie. They are a quietly determined, down-to-earth team - with Paton's sister, Ali, also now part of the winery.

Of all the pinot noirs that come my way, Ata Rangi rates the highest on my consistency radar. Try it.

Wines of the week:

2008 Selak's Winemaker's Favourite Central Otago Pinot Noir, $22
In honour of National Roast Day today, team up your roast lamb with this accessibly priced Central Otago Pinot Noir, which has a savoury tang and fruity zing. selaks.co.nz

2008 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, $65
Just as winemaker Clive Paton could feel the muscat grape in the asti he grew up with at mealtimes, he gives Ata Rangi Pinot Noir a consistent feeling of silky, velvet smoothness and spicy fruit flavours, which linger in every sip. atarangi.co.nz

2008 Wooing Tree Pinot Noir, $42
Not only a seductively named pinot noir but a bright, big-bodied one from Central Otago where, yes, there is an actual tree after which this new wine is named. Available from Caro's, Glengarry's, Herne Bay Cellars, Milford Cellars, La Barrique, Hamilton Wine Company or wooingtree.co.nz