Don't be afraid to ask for help when choosing a wine to accompany your meal.
Why don't they just give us a trigonometry quiz with the menu?" exclaimed an exasperated Jerry Seinfeld, bamboozled by the complexity of wine lists, which the US comedian felt served only to expose his ignorance.
Intimidating leather-bound tomes boasting hundreds of wines, are far more common in the States than over here. However, choosing wine in the restaurant can still be a daunting affair.
Don't be afraid to ask for advice: even aficionados shouldn't feel foolish doing this as a good waiter will be more au fait with the menu and consequently good wine matches than the diner. While there very few restaurants here that have a dedicated sommelier - that's the fancy French name for a wine waiter - all good establishments should have someone on hand who's able to guide you through the list to find a wine to suit your taste, food choices and pocket.
While I personally consider googling at the table for information poor form, technology can make wine lists easier to navigate. Some restaurants in Australia and the US now provide lists on an iPad, which can contain additional tasting notes, professional reviews and ratings. While it will never beat a good sommelier who'll be able to fast-track you to appropriate wines, being able to access more background on a wine before you buy is no bad thing.
So when you've made you choice, do you opt for a bottle or a glass? While sharing a bottle is more economical, if you're interested in matching a wine with the range of dishes that can often be found at one table, buying by the glass is a good option. I've been pleased to see a small but growing number of restaurants invest in new wine preserving systems which, in keeping open wines fresh for longer periods, allow restaurants to offer a wider and more affordable range of single-glass pours.
When the wine is bought to the table, even if it has a screwcap it's still prudent to accept a taster before it's poured. While the likelihood of there being an issue is far smaller than with cork (where bad ones can make a wine taste musty), poor storage and damage to the cap can still cause problems. And if you think there's something wrong with the wine, don't be afraid to send it back.
Finally, there's the bill. There's been a flurry of features in the media of late accusing restaurants of ripping off customers through excessive markups on wines. These range from 100 per cent in more casual establishments to over 300 per cent at the higher end, with 200 per cent a rough average in Auckland. This may sound steep, but in a city like London, mark-ups of 400 per cent-plus are not uncommon.
Given that you're paying for the service and the experience, combined with the fact that restaurants generally have to pay more for their stock than the supermarket groups with their huge buying power, you'd expect to shell out more than for the wine you'd drink in your own home. But just how much it's fair to add, is hotly debated.
If I'm presented with a well thought-out list, full of interesting wines from outside the mainstream and informed service, then I'm more relaxed about margins. However, when faced with a dull selection of supermarket wines sourced from a single supplier, I do resent paying the extra bucks and I'd rather go BYO.
Get a good wine list, add some helpful and knowledgeable service, and buying wine in the restaurant should never feel like Seinfeld's dreaded test.
PICK OF THE BUNCH
Artisan The Far Paddock Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 $20-$22
Big ripe flavours abound in this weighty drier style of gris with its notes of stone fruit and spice that segue into a fresh citrussy finish. (From Artisan Fine Wine Supplies, Big Picture Wine, Alberton Fine Wines, Gladstone Wines, La Cantina, Kumeu Cellars.)
Fairbourne Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $35
An elegant and textural sauvignon powered by a line of silky citrus and mineral from the newest recruit to The Specialist Wine Growers of New Zealand, whose members all focus on a single grape variety or style. (From rumbles.co.nz)
Langmeil Jackaman's Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $41.50
Made from very old vines, this classy cabernet from an exciting producer is well worth seeking out. Silky and concentrated with deep blackcurrant fruit, spice and savoury notes, lifted by fragrant florals and an attractive freshness. (From vinofino.co.nz or on order from fine wine retailers.)
