One of the people I heard from about nutrition is organic consultant Charles Benbrook. He and colleague Donald Davis developed a nutrient quality index - a way to rate foods based on how much of 27 nutrients they contain per 100 calories. Four of the five lowest-ranking foods (by serving size) are salad ingredients: cucumbers, radishes, lettuce and celery. (The fifth is eggplant.)
Those foods' nutritional profile can be partly explained by one simple fact: They're almost all water. Although water figures prominently in just about every vegetable (the sweet potato, one of the least watery, is 77 per cent), those four salad vegetables top the list at 95 to 97 per cent water. A head of iceberg lettuce has the same water content as a bottle of Evian (1-liter size: 96 per cent water, 4 per cent bottle) and is only marginally more nutritious.
Take collard greens. They are 90 per cent water, which still sounds like a lot. But it means that, compared with lettuce, every kilo of collard greens contains about twice as much stuff that isn't water, which, of course, is where the nutrition lives. But you're also likely to eat much more of them, because you cook them. A large serving of lettuce feels like a bona fide vegetable, but when you saute it (not that I'm recommending that), you'll see that two cups of romaine cooks down to a bite or two.
The corollary to the nutrition problem is the expense problem. The makings of a green salad - say, a head of lettuce, a cucumber and a bunch of radishes - cost about $3 at my supermarket. For that, I could buy more than two kilos of broccoli, sweet potatoes or just about any frozen vegetable going, any of which would make for a much more nutritious side dish to my roast chicken.
Lettuce is a vehicle to transport refrigerated water from farm to table. When we switch to vegetables that are twice as nutritious - like those collards or tomatoes or green beans - not only do we free up half the acres now growing lettuce, we cut back on the fossil fuels and other resources needed for transport and storage.
Save the planet, skip the salad.
Salad fools dieters into making bad choices. Lots of what passes for salad in restaurants is just the same as the rest of the calorie-dense diabolically palatable food that's making us fat, but with a few lettuce leaves tossed in. Next time you order a salad, engage in a little thought experiment: Picture the salad without the lettuce, cucumber and radish, which are nutritionally and calorically irrelevant. Is it a little pile of croutons and cheese, with a few carrot shavings and lots of ranch dressing?
Call something "salad," and it immediately acquires what Pierre Chandon calls a "health halo." Chandon, professor of marketing at INSEAD, an international business school in Fontainebleau, France, says that once people have the idea it's good for them, they stop paying attention "to its actual nutritional content or, even worse, to its portion size."
I asked Bret Thorn, columnist at Nation's Restaurant News and longtime observer of the restaurant industry, about salads. "Chefs are cognisant of what's going on in the psychology of diners," he said.
"They're doing a kind of psychological health washing," not just with salads, but with labels like "fresh" and "natural," and foods that are "local" and "seasonal." "A chef is not a nutritionist, or public health advocate," Thorn points out. "They make food that customers want to buy."
And we want to buy things that are fried or creamy or salty or sweet, or all of those things. Which doesn't mean that the right salad can't be a good choice for a nutritious meal. It just means that it's easy to get snookered.
Salad has unfortunate repercussions in our food supply. Lettuce has a couple of No. 1 unenviable rankings in the food world. For starters, it's the top source of food waste, vegetable division, becoming more than 1 billion pounds of uneaten salad every year. But it's also the chief culprit for foodborne illnesses. According to the Centers for Disease Control, green leafies accounted for 22 per cent of all food-borne illnesses from 1998-2008.
To be fair, "leafy vegetables," the CDC category, also includes cabbage, spinach and other kinds of greens, but the reason the category dominates is that the greens are often eaten raw. As in salad.
None of this is to say that salad doesn't have a role in our food supply. I like salad, and there's been many a time a big bowl of salad on the dinner table has kept me from a second helping of lasagna. The salads we make at home aren't the same as the ones we buy in restaurants; according to the recipe app Yummly, its collection of lettuce-based salads average 398 calories per serving.
An iceberg wedge, with radishes and bacon and blue-cheese dressing, is something I certainly have no plans to give up. But as we look for ways to rejigger our food supply to grow crops responsibly and feed people nutritiously, maybe we should stop thinking about salad as a wholesome staple, and start thinking about it as a resource-hungry luxury.
Haspel writes about food and science and farms oysters on Cape Cod. On Twitter: @TamarHaspel.
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