It creeps through some of the more expensive suburbs of the Auckland isthmus – Herne Bay, Westmere, Ponsonby, Mt Eden, Ōrākei, Meadowbank, Takapuna, the David Seymour
cultural wastelands of Epsom – and makes itself known not just at the till but also on the way to the till (those anxious footsteps towards check-out, approaching the moment of truth) and long after paying at the till and exiting the premises, feeling fleeced.
Farro Fresh is an upmarket food supermarket. It opened in 2006. It has seven stores in Auckland. It was founded by Janene and James Draper. In 2022, they raised money through private investment company Waterman Capital.
Herald business reporter Aimee Shaw wrote: “It would not say how much cash was raised but it is understood to be a multi-million dollar sum”.
Her story also noted: “Last year Farro Fresh told the Herald that it was on track to exceed $100 million in revenue for the first time”.
Farro Fresh began with a dozen staff and now employs about 400.
Story at Scoop, June 21 this year: “Workers at Farro Fresh are among the very lowest-paid in the industry, and FIRST Union members at the chain are pushing back against the company’s offer of a pay increase that is less than the rate of inflation and the proposed introduction of a new 90-day trial period in next year’s Collective Agreement with staff. Nicholas Mayne, FIRST Union organiser, said that Farro Fresh’s current ‘take it or leave it’ offer to union members would mean the majority of Farro Fresh employees would be earning between the minimum wage and $24.20 per hour”.
Farro Fresh has really good food, lots of treats.
Its website states, “Our stores were created to open Kiwi’s eyes and mouths to an unbelievably, deliciously, amazing world of food.”
There is no apostrophe in “Kiwi’s” but there is so much deliciousness across its wide range of artisan products, its great deli, its interesting meats, its very good fruit and vegetables.
You pay for quality. It’s a contract that you understand as soon as you enter the premises.
There is nothing about Farro Fresh which makes you think you are at Pak’nSave. Farro Fresh is not the downbeat world of Homebrand and Pam’s; specials this week at Farro Fresh include Wise Boys Horopito & Lime Dressing (250ml, $8.79) and Harmony Coastal Butterflied Lamb Leg with Herbs (400g, $18.49).
Farro Fresh inspired a text I received from a friend on Monday. She wrote: “Can you pass on a msg to F? I just saw him in Farro Fresh and he said hi but I was busy being spaced out over the total and didn’t register and he must think I’m a complete fkn snob - or vacant. Not sure what’s worse. Anyway I felt bad. He’s so lovely. I had delayed recognition”.
I wrote back: “He will totally get the Farro Fresh crisis. We have all been there. Leave it with me!”
I called our mutual friend. As predicted, he understood her predicament in an instant.
We had all spaced out at the Farro Fresh till.
For an alternative view: Farmers, supermarkets and rising food prices - Dr Jacqueline Rowarth
Farro Fresh in Ōrākei is likely its most beautifully located store, up high above the lovely shining waters of Hobson Bay. I visited in June and bought four small items.
It came to $48.25. I spaced out at the till and exited feeling dizzy, then indignant – surely they had made a mistake! I marched back in and confronted the Farro Fresh worker currently being offered income between the minimum wage and $24.20 per hour.
He ran it through the till again. There was no mistake. I exited, an old fool squinting at the lovely shining waters of Hobson Bay.
Farro Fresh anxiety is a specific example of the general budgeting woes so many of us feel in the recession winter of 2024. Not everyone who lives in the more expensive suburbs of the Auckland isthmus is well-off, or even comfortable.
We yearn for the next paypacket, cringe at the next power bill. Times are tough. The least we deserve is a treat, something yum for the tum.
We head off to Farro Fresh, and fear for our fleece.
