The Alaia black mesh ballerinas are simply made of soles, mesh uppers and buckle straps. Photo / Getty Images
There’s a certain elegance to a ballet pump. Here are three alternatives that won’t have you running to the chiropodist.
The “it shoe” of the moment is less of a shoe and more of a window to your bare feet. Alaia’s cult mesh pumps come with the moniker “fishnet ballet flats”, perhaps because your feet really do need to look like the catch of the day if you’re going to wear them. Barely more than simply a sole (no pun intended) with a mesh upper and buckle strap, they’re a favourite with influencers who, presumably, have the time for regular winter pedicures and work at home rather than braving the soggy streets of the UK.
Celebrities are also fans; the OG ballet-flat champion, Kate Moss, is back in hers, while Jennifer Lawrence takes the look a step further with her nude illusion ballet flats from The Row. At this point, I’m wondering whether it would be easier to give up on shoes altogether.
These ventilated versions of dancing shoes have been so popular that copycats have once again been restocked at many high street stores for less than a tenth of the price of the originals (the Alaias will set you back £650 or NZ$1360). As someone who hasn’t worn heels for 12 years (I literally wrote the book), you’d think I’d be happy that flat shoes are still as relevant as when we first started to veer away from vertiginous heels a decade or so ago. But of all the flat shoes, ballet flats have to be my least favourite. And yes, I’m including Crocs in that statement.
When we went in hard on ballet flats in the mid-00s, I had just started working in fashion and was on an intern’s wages. Which was no wages. I bought myself a pair of cheap ballet flats because I thought they’d be practical for running around the streets of London. However, these flimsy yellow pumps were the exact opposite; my feet and ankles were always cold, often wet, and worst of all, they hurt. I can honestly say my right big toe has never been the same since a bunion first developed when I walked everywhere in them to save on Oyster card fees.
A year or so later, and with one of my new-found junior fashion editor discounts in hand, I bought a more expensive pair of ballet flats, and was horrified to encounter the exact same issues that I had with the cheap pair. From that point on, ballet flats were a hard no from me.
Unlike true “barefoot” shoes, like those made by Vivobarefoot and Tabi that don’t restrict the feet and have numerous health benefits including increasing toe strength and relieving back pain, many podiatrists agree ballet flats can cause bunions, shin splints and even plantar fasciitis.
I don’t buy many new pairs of shoes these days, thanks to some better-thought-out, practical purchases than those ballet pumps, and the fact I have embraced a slower way of loving fashion. I like my clothes to work hard for me, to last a long time, and to be repairable.
My local cobbler would laugh me out of the shop if I presented them with a battered £30 ($63) pair of polyester and polyurethane pumps. I’m referring to those high street copycats, which, incidentally, would not biodegrade when they inevitably end up in landfill after they can’t be repaired or recycled.
But I do concede there is a certain elegance to the minimal look of a ballet pump, so here are my top three alternatives that won’t have you running to the chiropodist (with the bonus you will still be able to run).
Mary Janes
These super-comfy beauties have a surprise rubber sole — great for grip and a little extra support — and the sturdy strap negates the need for your toes to grip on for dear life, else lose the shoes down the gap on the train platform. Be aware some Mary Janes don’t have these qualities and can be just as troublesome as ballet pumps.
Fisherman sandals
Perfect for those who are fans of a little ventilation, but are perhaps more partial to a home pedicure, or none at all. Mine are about 10 years old and I’ve worn them loads — proof, if any were needed, that well-made leather shoes do last. Unlike mesh ballet flats, these look great with socks — in my opinion — and come with that all-important fishing reference.
Loafers
A chunky loafer won’t give you a similar vibe to a ballet flat, but if you can find something with a delicate silhouette like these, you won’t be far off. The key is to look for a vamp — that’s the bit of the shoe on the top of your foot — that doesn’t come up too far; it’s a bit more leg lengthening. Oh, and I can guarantee that your cobbler won’t laugh at you; this 14-year-old pair has been re-soled more than once.