White's discerning reds

Stonyridge Larose. Photo / Paul Estcourt

It's been a great year for Stonyridge Vineyard. The cult-status boutique Waiheke producer, owned by Steve White, is on a roll. White has undergone a transformation.

Formerly known as Stephen, he's shortened his name to Steve. "It's more user-friendly, it's in keeping with my new, less formal image," says the man who has also shed his wild party-man reputation. "Those days are gone, I'm going all respectable," says White with a grin. Put it down to his new zen-like tranquillity, the result of discovering the joys of yoga and becoming a qualified yoga teacher.

The former round-the-world sailor dropped anchor and planted grapes on Waiheke Island in 1982, in the slipstream of his close neighbour, Goldwater Estate. The vision, after completing a few vintages in the late 70s in Tuscany, California and Bordeaux, was to create a world-class medoc-style red. He has done it.

As wine writer Michael Cooper says in his epic Wine Atlas of New Zealand: "For its arresting power, complexity and richness and sheer vintage-to-vintage brilliance, Stonyridge Larose is arguably the greatest of New Zealand's claret-styled reds."

At a charity fundraiser earlier this year, Prime Minister John Key bid furiously for six bottles of the 2008 Stonyridge Larose and felt he got a great deal at $5000. Now respected British wine writer Neal Martin has given that same wine 93-95 out of 100, a remarkably high score.

Stonyridge's funky, rustic vineyard restaurant receives regular accolades from overseas food, wine and travel writers, and young rising star winemaker Summer Bell is already stamping her authority and flare on the wines.

To cap things off, Daniel Schuster, highly acclaimed veteran winemaker and international viticulturist, has arrived as consultant. Nirvana is just another vintage away.

Recommended

2008 Stonyridge Larose

From an almost perfect island vintage. Rich, fruit-driven, densely flavoured, fine structure with slinky, gorgeous tannins. Should be cellared for at least eight years, if you can hold out that long.
Price: $220

2008 Stonyridge Pilgrim

Rhone-style blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre. A delicious lip-smacking red, awash with plum, blackcurrant and spice. A food wine, perfect with smoky barbecue meats.
Price: $80