White, Hilton Hotel

Herald rating: * * * 1/2

Back when canvas celebrated its first birthday, we had a dinner party at White, the Hilton's restaurant at the end of Princes Wharf with what must be the best site for a restaurant in town. Among the more delectable dishes served that night by then-executive chef Geoff Scott was a scampi tortellini so sublime I have never forgotten it.

It was the memory of that dish that lured me back into White this night and I was thrilled to see something very similar to it listed on the menu: a crab and scampi raviolo in a bouillabaisse consomme. Not only was I going to have it, but it would be my main course, I quickly decided. What a disappointment, made only worse by the anticipation. It was bland, it was boring, and at $37 for two pieces of raviolo, it was expensive.

So this, as you can probably tell, is going to be a less that rapturous account of a night at what has been one of Auckland's most highly regarded restaurants.

First, the rest of the complaints. Sure, our table was positioned to take best advantage of the harbour views, one of White's most attractive features; but we felt slightly as though we were perched on a stage with the steps falling away behind my chair.

Next, among the three people who served us — and the service was beyond reproach — was one who twice got our attention by approaching us from behind and touching us on the back. We found that just a little surprising.

Worse was that for the entire evening the passageway to the bathroom, which is in full view of the restaurant, was adorned with bright yellow signs warning of a wet floor. Couldn't they have dried it? It gave off all the ambience of a hospital ward.

Lastly, Terrie reckoned her Moreton Bay bug which she ordered for her entree, might not have been unacquainted with the inside of a freezer.

And now for the good news.

I like the way White sets out its menu. Not too many choices — six entrees and six mains — all interesting combinations of ingredients. I like the way they standardise the prices: $20 for entrees and $37 for mains, although that must certainly mean some diners subsidising others. And I like that they offer wine matches with each dish.

The start of my meal, the five-spiced duck with potato blini, mango and papaya, accompanied by a glass of the recommended Brick Bay pinot gris was, although a tiny morsel, very fine indeed.

And after her less than enthusiastic start, Terrie was in raptures over her main: the karengo (a type of seaweed) crusted lamb with Maori potato, truffled baby leek and garlic cream — leaving me even more depressed about my raviolo.

Rather than dessert, Terrie opted for the three-cheese platter ($18), accompanied by generous supplies of crackers and dried fruits. Again she had ordered more wisely than did I, who opted for the passionfruit and mixed berry trifle ($16), which was unmemorable. Curse my sweet tooth.

By the time we had added another glass of wine each, plus dessert wines, our bill for two was a gob-smacking $257. And I wouldn't have minded that if I felt it had been an exemplary evening, when it just wasn't.

WHERE: White, Hilton Hotel, Princes Wharf (09) 978 2000
OUR MEAL: $257 for two entrees, two mains, one dessert, one cheese platter and six glasses of wine.