What to keep, throw out, recycle this summer

Karen Walker combines stripes and leggings for summer.

There's something in the air and it's not just springtime pollen. Deep beneath the grand runways of Europe's fashion epicentres, just under the surface of this country's own not-quite-as-grand catwalks, there are rumblings and twitchings. Because a whole new look is in gestation.

Yes, yes, we know. The clothing industry is always going on about "new looks". It's their way of getting everyone to buy clothes every few months. But this time it's serious.

Basically there are two sorts of trends that tend to have an effect on our clothing choices. There are the smaller, easily recognisable ones - like puffball skirts and giant bows all over everything. And then there are the larger, less visible trends. These tend to involve the sorts of cupboard-shaking developments that leave you dissatisfied with everything you own. It's almost like fashion has a wild mood swing, leaving you in a permanent state of wardrobe crisis one unhappy day because all of a sudden nothing feels "right" any more.

Thankfully these mood swings don't occur very often and they happen in slow motion.

At the moment a bunch of smaller trends are emerging here and overseas. They point to just such a mood swing, one that will go on for several seasons at the very least and will eventually have a longer-lasting effect on what you wear for the next year.

What does it involve? Monotone colours, interesting shapes, textural fabrics, subtle pattern cutting and an apparent movement away from obviously vintage-inspired looks toward original, inimitable design-led looks.

Basically, they're the sort of garments that the chain stores cannot copy and that only the really high-end labels can charge a very well-dressed arm and a leg for. So there you go, you've been warned.

But don't panic - this is a slow evolution. So to start with, a gentle editing process to begin fashion's reformation this summer - nothing to alarm anyone; don't throw out your favourites yet.

RECYCLE THIS

Summer dresses

Especially empire-line or baby-doll shapes. Still a staple right up until next winter and fitting in well with the slightly oversized-and-interesting proportions that designers have been playing with. They're more likely to come in plain tones, interesting fabrics and unusual prints than anything pretty or Bohemian.

T-shirts

With so-called ironic or witty slogans and unique artworks on them. And especially the oversized kind that sit so well over skinny-leg pants.

Skinny pants

These will soon be joined by leggings, footless tights and topped with lots of larger-than-usual tops and T-shirts.

Stripes

At one stage, your average stripey number was compulsory for all indie rock'n'rollers. Such uniformity could have been discouraging. But stripes just seem to be too cute to let go of and they continue to make an appearance right through to next summer.

Victorian and Edwardian looks

Various fashion pundits have described this look as historic, romantic or Bohemian. But the real reason it's still hanging around, despite the demise of the boho style last season, is because it's still all about the music; those grunge looks in particular.

Newer designer interpretations are not always an exact translation from the vintage store. They'll often have bigger, puffier sleeves, longer tails on their tailcoats and deconstruction may be involved - but the average shopper can easily hang on to what they've already bought.

Puffball

Thankfully the mad, giant versions of the puffball and mushroom skirt seem to have left the building. Nonetheless, designers are still doing the puff, albeit in a more subtle, draped and easier-to-wear way. Hang on to this shape as it ties in well with the new boldly proportioned looks.

Ladylike looks

Your prim pencil skirts, cardigans, vests and pumps will see you through yet another season of librarian chic.

Satin

Tying in with all those plainer, more sombre looks is satin because it's one way of doing high-gloss glamour without looking like Elton John or Dame Edna.

Belts

The womanly waist is still your average designer's choice of erogenous zone. And with all these oversized dresses and T-shirts about, it's particularly important to give yourself some shape with either a pair of skinny pants or a belt.

Round toes and wedges

Although the wedges are slowly mutating into platforms that most normal humans will find rather difficult to walk in, the round toe is still most popular.

BIN THIS

Gypsy skirts

And any other intensely Bohemian looks - overly girly frills, masses of ruffles, embroidery and ethnic affectations are long gone. Except maybe for beach-going or commune-dwelling.

Boho belts, jewellery and bags

Everything's slimming down and becoming more subtle. There's nothing wrong with a careful colourful accent, but those masses of jangling bangles, huge necklaces of semi-precious stones, and patchwork belts, should be stored for the next boho revival (don't worry, you probably won't have to wait too long).

Bootlegs

They're still a flattering choice for most women with life-sized hips. But they're also looking more and more dated as the various forms of skinny pants make an indelible mark on the runway. C'mon ladies, the best way to hang up your favourite pair of bootlegs is to seek out flattering, skinnier cuts such as the tailored cigarette pant or the straight-leg jean.

Ruffles

Even the most avid local purveyors of ruffles were toning it down on the runways at New Zealand Fashion Week. The new looks are all about shape, volume, fabric and cutting. Unnecessary embellishments have been discarded.

Florals

The only flowers in fashion's garden this summer are big, bold, bright and unusual. Tiny sprigs and complicated paisleys are on the out.

Pastel colours

Particularly true pink, which is only a happening shade for Barbie dolls and 8-year-olds. More popular are those slightly off-looking colours from the '80s as well as electric brights and semi-fluorescents from the same era. For example, it's the difference between a bold fuchsia and proper pink. Or electric blue - in - and baby blue - out.

SHOP FOR THIS

Anything out of proportion

Invest in something with a designer label that's oversized or has an interesting, unusual cut. It can be as simple as a pretty blouse with larger-than-usual puffed sleeves or a grey marl men's singlet from Zambesi. You'll be able to wear it with leggings, shorts or shorter skirts this summer and layer it up all next winter.

Baggy pants

Help has arrived for anyone who doesn't think they can switch to skinny leg pants but knows the bootleg is a little outdated. Baggier trousers are making a comeback. These run the gamut from boyfriend-style jeans with straight, looser legs to tailored wool or tweed.

Polka dots

The new stripes.

Shorter skirts

You'll need to buy one of these as they haven't been in the shops for a while at this length - just above the knee or shorter. Then again, thrifty seamstresses could always take up a hem or two.

Silver and gold

Muted metallic shades like burnished gold, pearl and silvery greys are some of the most favoured colours for eveningwear.

Ankle boots

If you see some you like in a sale, snap them up. Slowly but surely knee-highs are being phased out.