KEY POINTS:
How about a drop of pinot gris from Dunedin? Or maybe a sauvignon blanc from Sweden? You'd be forgiven if these cool-climate curiosities are currently below your radar.
But if predictions of global warming prove correct you could be quaffing these in the not-too-distant future as climate change redraws the world's wine map, threatening classic wine styles across the globe, including our unique sauvignon blanc.
Climate plays a crucial role in where grapes can be grown and what styles they produce, something that has traditionally confined vineyards to latitudes between 30 and 50 north and south of the Equator, and led individual regions to select grape varieties suited to their conditions.
When climate, soil and variety find their perfect combination, the great wines of the world can result. Think pinot noir from Burgundy, or indeed sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, where its cool climes help to heighten the variety's keynote aromatics and zippy acidity.
Most grape varieties only perform well within narrow climatic bands, so estimates that temperatures will rise between 1C and 3.5C by the end of the century could take some of the zing out of Marlborough sauvignon.
"The rug will be pulled from under sauvignon blanc when the climate changes," says Australian viticulturalist, Richard Smart. "Add 1C to Marlborough and it is similar to Napier, and Hawkes Bay sauvignon blanc does not have the same reputation. Add 2C and you're up in Auckland."
Given our somewhat chilly summer this year, global warming seems an ice age away, especially for our winegrowers, whose volumes for this year's harvest have been cut by frosts and cold weather at flowering. But the cloud that cooled the 2007 vintage may well have a silver lining in the long term.
"We're not seeing dramatic climate change and it's not getting significantly warmer," says Jeff Clarke, chief winemaker at Pernod Ricard NZ.
"Our biggest concern of late is the higher incidence of frost which we didn't have 20 years ago. And we've had two of the coldest Decembers on record in the past four years."
New Zealand is better placed than many other countries to weather the coming climatic storms, as it is located at the coolest end of the vinegrowing spectrum. Its size and vast expanse of sea surrounding it moderates rising temperatures by a quarter of the global average.
Nevertheless, more meteorological mayhem, which won't necessarily preclude frosts, will likely prove the pattern of the future.
Hit by a destructive mix of frost, drought and rain at vintage this year, Australia is experiencing worse conditions. Even more of a worry for its wine industry is that some of its important wine regions may become too hot for commercial viticulture.
Smart predicts that famous vineyard regions could lose their reputation for present varieties and the world's winegrowing regions may move to higher altitudes and towards the poles.
Vines could consequently be seen in places like Scandinavia, which were previously too cold to ripen grapes, and England is already experiencing a vineyard boom that is attracting French investment.
In New Zealand, hotter times could provide an opportunity to grow a wider range of grapes, with some existing varieties having to head further south. While the Deep South will get wetter, which is not great for grapes, Dunedin could become 10 per cent drier and a few degrees warmer, making its destiny as a winegrowing region not so far-fetched.
Dunedin has one vineyard, planted just recently.
While its owners might initially have been regarded as one grape short of a harvest, they may have found the viticultural hotspot of the next century.
COOL CLASSICS
Quintessential Sauvignon
Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $19.95
Punchy aromas and pure vibrant fruit are the hallmarks of Marlborough Sauvignon, and this zesty lime, herb and passion fruit-packed new cult classic has both in spades.
From fine wine stores including Caros.
New Horizons
Ostler Audrey's Waitaki Valley Pinot Gris 2006 $31.25
One of the winners in a warmer New Zealand could be the Waitaki Valley, west of Oamaru. Its ultra-cool climes give this estate's first Pinot Gris a crisp apple bite to its light but textured palate of fresh pear, spice and minerals.
From fine wine stores including The Fine Wine Delivery Company.
Watch Out Burgundy
Wooing Tree Central Otago Pinot Noir 2005 $36.60
Our current cool conditions make New Zealand one of the few places in the world capable of producing decent Pinot Noir. This fresh and silky Central Otago specimen seduces with its layers of cherries, dried rose petals and touch of gaminess.
From fine wine stores including Glengarry.
