Vino, Vino, Waiheke Island

Vino Vino overlooks the beach.

Herald rating: * * * ½

Boats and I do not sit easily, since brother Martin's yacht lost its centreboard (for the uninitiated, this is the bit that keeps it upright) in what were, to a 9-year-old, mountainous seas in Evans Bay.

So when I went down to the sea again - to Waiheke for dinner on the deck with the warm glow of daylight saving caressing Oneroa Bay - it was only natural that a gale of Katrina, Rita, Stan and Wilma proportions would give me a rousing send-off.

Herself recognised a whiter shade of pale on the wharf at Matiatia. "Vino vino?" she suggested. "At least two," I agreed. "But I'll be starting with a stiff whisky."

"Good," she replied. "I'll have a G&T when we get to Vino Vino."

An institution for the best part of a decade, Dayne and Rebecca Tomczyk's laidback bistro overlooks the beach, anchorage and last remaining baches from Oneroa's main drag. As we furled umbrellas, the maitresse d' asked if we'd booked.

"No," I said, fearful I'd wasted good sea-sickness pills on a futile voyage. Fortunately the hurricane must have caused mass no-shows because only one other table would be occupied, by a trio who brought their own birthday cake.

Spirits applied and restored, Herself and I started chatting. We were still chatting three minutes later when the maitresse arrived for our order. And three minutes later when she returned. And two minutes after that, and ... I'm not sure why the maitresse was so keen for us to order that she toddled over six times in 20 minutes.

Dayne's winter menu is comfort food. Large portions, for folks who've just weighed anchor and have no intention of weighing themselves. This was extremely gratifying to Herself and myself for we like our food. As it would transpire, we liked each other's food as well.

She, having soup, was well pleased with the night's special, a rousing broth of tomato, herb and bacon served as it should be, in a darned big white bowl. My gutsy entree - mushroom, spinach, creme fraiche ravioli, in a tomato and herb sauce - would have been a main on the other side of the Gulf.

We havered about the mains before settling on pork and chicken. "Bring one of each," I told the maitresse, "and we'll decide when we see them."

"You'll probably end up sharing," she said, and she was right.

For we are of an age which understands that crackling on a plate of pork is not a mortal sin, and that coq au vin is one of the gems of a civilisation that inspired Voltaire, Montaigne and Edith Piaf.

Though these classics had been fiddled: chef roasted the pork belly in dark ale, an excellent idea, because the open pores and adipose meat absorbed the sugars and flavours of the beer. Braised red cabbage and apples, red onion jam enhanced the dish. The coq, mushrooms, pancetta and baby onions wallowed in a surfeit of barley risotto. Not sure about that: after a hard night's sailing I craved starch in the form of gratin or dauphinoise.

The short wine list steers the visitor to try island wines. It's the Waiheke philosophy: think global, drink local. We had a thumping good red, Te Whau "The Point", blended from grapes which appreciate the terroir around Rocky Point.

We headed towards dessert. I fancied pear and walnut gingerbread pudding with butterscotch sauce. Herself pointed to the dessert cocktails, style over substance. "Brandy alexander?" I suggested. "Two," she said.

As they appeared, so did two pieces of birthday cake, from the next table, baked by the chap who was celebrating his wife's birthday with their friend. Waiheke is like that.

Address: 3/153 Ocean View Rd, Oneroa, Waiheke
Phone: (09) 372 9888
Open: 7 days 11am-11pm; Owners Rebecca and Dayne Tomczyk; Chef Dayne Tomczyk
From the menu: Roasted tomatoes, melted feta and pesto stacked with wonton wrappers $15; Coromandel mussels steamed in crayfish bisque, grilled ciabatta $24; Spinach and basil gnocchi with pumpkin, pinenuts, leeks, cumin and gouda cream sauce $22
Vegetarian: Of course, this is Waiheke
Wine: Shortish list tips its cork to island producers
Bottom line: Laidback bistro, comfort food, comfortable service - only 40 minutes away