View from the top

Richard Kavanagh reckons it's time men grew up a bit grooming-wise. Take a dash of Mad Men and make it modern.

The top stylist worked on a host of fashion shows in New York, Paris and Milan this season and noticed a definite trend to more sophisticated styling. This year he worked with Redken maestro Guido on shows including Prada, Versace, Sonia Rykiel, Yves Saint Laurent and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Kavanagh has just appointed an agent in New York to manage more international freelance work on top of what he does as part of Redken's hand-picked team of 10 international artists. From this role he passes on tips to local hairstylists for a brand that specialises in hairdresser education. Here he shares some advice with Viva readers:

What looks from the international shows will adapt well for everyday men's styles?

The main looks for men at the shows were very masculine. We are seeing shorter hair, with a 50s vibe, casually pushed back with the hands or slicked back and parted cleanly with a comb. All men's hair styles are heavily layered with product to give hold and a wet look finish. Think television's Mad Men meets biker cool.

What do you want to see more (and less) of this winter?

I want to see more men looking like men, not trying to look like adolescents. For years now, men have been going for a skater boy "I don't care" look and it's time for men to grow up a bit with their grooming and image.

Comb your hair, stand up straight, tie your laces...

What products should men get to grips with using?

Men should have a big can of mousse in their bathroom cupboards, and a strong-hold styling wax.

Do men pay enough attention to hair condition?

As men generally wear their hair shorter and have it cut more often, there is much less need to use a lot of conditioning products. However, it's still important to care for the hair and scalp. If men are wearing their hair longer (particularly in our environment and culture of outdoor living, sun, sea and surf) they really need to use a good quality conditioner to keep their hair looking its best as well as a quality shampoo to cleanse the scalp and hair and help prevent premature hair loss and ageing.

What's your favourite styling product of the moment?

Redken For Men High Rise Hard Wax ($31). It's awesome to create the modern looks. It gives maximum control while maintaining a pliable, movable finish. (The wax is low-shine and matte, plus it resists humidity.)

Anything other tips?

Something I learned from my grandfather as a boy: he once read in GQ that a well-dressed gentleman has a haircut every three weeks - that way he never looks like he just had a haircut and he never looks like he needs one. A piece of advice my grandfather followed his entire life and something that definitely influenced the way I see men's hair.

Handy helpers

The days when all men had to worry about was having a tub of Brylcreem have long gone, but you can still keep it simple by choosing the right products. Get your stylist to recommend options for your hair type and style and then factor in your personal preference on texture and touch. If you're after a natural feel then opt for lighter styling creams rather than heavier waxes, pomades or gels, but you will sacrifice some hold. Mousses and foams add volume and no longer invariably feel scrunchy, and spritzes can give a light lift.

1. Holistic Hair Sea Spray $22

Fresh-smelling way to add body to finer hair and definition to curls and waves, without looking too done and yes, it does contain salt. From a natural range developed in Auckland by trichologist Nigel Russell. He's a keen surfer and says this water-based product helps plump up the hair cuticle without out any greasy residue, giving it that tousled beach boy look. (Stockists see www.holistichair.co.nz)

2. Joico Body Luxe Design Foam $29

Heat-activated, non-aerosol foam with oat protein complex for added body with a soft feel. Work a few pumps into damp hair and style.

3. Kevin Murphy Gritty Business $44

When first rubbed on the palms, this khaki-coloured, heavy-duty mix of clay, oil and wax will leave them feeling sandblasted, but on the head the grit is gone and the result is a dry, strong hold which pulls hair into shape without that gelled look. For stockists ph: (09) 525 1075.

4. Dominate Fiber $9.99

This New Zealand range sells like hotcakes here and in Australia and was developed by a former hairdresser. Fiber is one of the newer products, a matte finish moulding creme. Dominate is a cost-effective way to try different styling products. (From bigger supermarkets.)

5. American Crew Tea Tree Light Hold Styling Cream $42

Tubs of American Crew creams and pastes are well-established favourites with differing degrees of hold and shine. This tube of gel-like cream is new to the range, doesn't smell much like tea tree, but does offer a nice light way of adding shape to damp hair. Works better for natural look definition in mid-lengths than the heavier pastes. For stockists ph (09) 525 1075.

6. Sebastian Microweb Fiber $34

For shorter cuts, apply this flexible elastic texturiser to the palms of your hands before moulding into hair any which way. Sticky on fingers but the finish is fine.

7. Fudge Dry Dust $24

A little canister of dry powder that not only texturises finer hair, but also soaks up excess oil for those times when you can't squeeze in a wash and dry. A bit fiddly to apply.

8. L'Oreal Paris Men Expert Excell 5 $14.99

Men are lucky they're allowed to go grey gracefully, but if you want to hold back time a little the best cover-ups are subtle and partial, working to knock back the greys rather than obliterating them. A professional dye job chosen from a wide range of colours gives the best result, but for a little DIY this five-minute brush-through colour available in seven shades and an ammonia-free formula is a good way to go. (From supermarkets, pharmacies and department stores.)

Stockists: Professional salons and specialty hair product shops.