Verona, K'Road

By JENNIFER YEE for canvas

Style never goes out of fashion. K'Rd icon Verona cafe, bar, restaurant has been a hip place to drink, eat and talk since 1992. The building's renovation since student days has been somewhat of a reinvention of its past — an art supply store, ice cream parlour and coffee lounge. Just a hop from St Kevin's Arcade, it sits in kick-arse fashion amid Auckland's most vibrant inner city neighbourhood.

Clientele fall between arts scene, boho and marketers and the eclectic interior — collectables, candelabra, red lacquer walls and gold accents — give a hint of bordello. But it's the laidback, crawl into the weekend sort of mood that we most like about Verona.

The Verona kitchen is known for its use of largely organic produce and condiments. The one-page menu boasts tastes with Asian and Middle Eastern influences. The approach is modern without scaring the hell out of you. The wine list is similarly succinct but includes a well chosen selection of Australian, New Zealand, Spanish and French wines. The organic choices are from Millton Vineyard, Gisborne, with a sparkling feijoa wine from Auckland's Lothlorien.

ENTREES: Head straight for the cinnamon-scented Moorish chickpea fritters. On their own, they're crisp, moist, aromatic and delectable. They come with Brian's rhubarb salsa, avocado and watercress salad. The fritters are also suitable for vegans, who we are not, but it's helpful that these items are marked with 'V'. The cherry tomato, bocconcini and sage tartlet with lime and avocado oil also took our fancy. Flag the mixed platter entree.

It's too much of a mission to sort through for the good bits but we did enjoy the fresh asparagus wrapped in crispy pancetta with their sexy slender stalks and the saltiness on our tongues. The tempura nori-wrapped tofu and tempeh with spinach and Japanese pickles were also worth retrieving.

MAINS: My borrowed date, Duncan, favoured the cumin-rubbed lamb rump on kumara rosti with glazed beetroot, green beans and grainy mustard creme fraiche dressing. The lamb was cooked to the right degree of medium rare and delicious, though my companion repeatedly told me he couldn't taste the cumin.

My organic chicken breast came bundled in pancetta, with roast pear, parsnip, vine tomatoes and finished with fig vincotto. It was visually appealing, the flavours fitting comfortably but was unfortunately a little overcooked. I do like parsnips any which way but especially roasted and the combination with pear didn't fight with the chook.

PUD: We shared a pear and citrus cake with a bowl of fig and honey ice cream. I really wanted the banana fritter, chocolate ganache with lemongrass and ginger ice cream but the kitchen had closed. Shame about the whiff of floor cleaner that arrived with dessert and coffee.

The coffee was perfectly configured despite this distraction, though the couple sitting next to us and the kitchen left promptly after their cheesecake experience because it reminded them of forgotten housework.

The coffee is from organic east Timorese beans
roasted by Kaiora Organics.

WINE: Lake Hayes, pinot noir 2002 was somewhat acidic upfront with tart berries and a slightly tannic finish –but we seemed not to mind with our food.

STAFF: Hip, pierced and friendly. Mark, front-of-house man on Saturday, is sharp, efficient and purposeful.

TOILETS: In your face paint job, clean. Boys follow the big M into the blue/red bold stripey room, Gals, the big W, Pink, purple, striped powder room.

Start with cocktails at Verona, followed by a groove at the Kuja lounge. This place continues to offer a chilled-out start to a 'sleep in the next day' sort of weekend.

OUR MEAL: $121.50 for 2 incl. 1 bottle of wine. Entree $8.5-$22.5 (plate to share); mains $17.5-$28; cake & dessert $5-$12

OUR WINES: wine by the glass $6.5-$10; by the bottle $26.50-$45; sparkling $26.50-$120

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.