Valentino's Ristorante Italiano, Turangi

By CARROLL du CHATEAU for canvas

We never thought our search for an old-fashioned Italian local would end at the family bach. To be honest, we never expected to find a decent restaurant — of any type — in Turangi. And then Rusty and Lizzie, who live near our bach at Omori, 10km west of the town, swept us along to their favourite local.

When we arrived this Sunday night, Valentino's, which sits upstairs over the National Bank, was empty, meaning we collected the full force of the baby pink walls, gingham tiffany lamp shades, murals — not to mention the ubiquitous mounted trout.

After an enthusiastic greeting, the locals immediately ordered their favourites — scaloppine con funghi for him, papardelle or thin-cut fettucine with shaved ham and cream, for her. And, of course, a bowl of what Lizzie insists are "the best chips in the world", dutifully hand-cut by Karena, who runs Valentino's with her chef husband Ettore. She was right. They were the best. And so what if chips don't usually go with pasta.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Lizzie and Brian also ordered the fegatini di anitra panfried duck liver entree ($9.50) and I chose the special tortellini, stuffed with spinach and pumpkin and tossed in butter and whole sage leaves ($11). Our entrees were massive by city standards. And although they lacked that spectacular show-off finesse city restaurants specialise in, they were much too tasty to leave. The duck livers were a bit overdone for my taste and the slab of wholemeal toast not terribly authentic, but the tortellini which Valentino's stuff themselves, was brilliant.

By the time our main courses arrived, we knew we were in trouble. My scaloppine con funghi, beef escalopes with brandy, cream and mushrooms ($24) was as good as anything I've had in K Rd and covered the entire plate, with just enough room for a helping of chips on the side. Brian's saltimbocca, beef fillet topped with ham and sage leaves then fried in marsala, ($23) was served flat rather than rolled, which left him too with little room for chips. Although it was tender and tasty, he envied our scaloppines. And Lizzie's parpadelle, though looking innocuous, tasted like a decent calorie capsule should — stunning.

So we struggled on, helped by a powerful bottle of St Hallett cabernet sauvignon ($39) towards a bowl of Valentino's-style tiramisu ($6.50) to share.

The only thing we stopped on was the grappa ($4.50 a glass). "Not for the faint-hearted" said the sign on the bar. Even the locals don't go there.

Valentino's was, we decided later, the perfect Turangi experience. For once our main courses outshone our entrees, the service, though countryish, was personal and enthusiastic and those chips ... the best in the world.

Ambience: Relaxed holiday feel.

Cost: $191 for three entrees, four main courses and one dessert, with one bottle of wine, one gin and tonic, and two glasses of sauvignon blanc.


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