KEY POINTS:
After three weeks of sniffing, swirling, sipping and spitting my way though hundreds of wines at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in Britain, I felt I deserved a medal for my efforts.
Wine judging's no junket, but the opportunity to taste and debate so many wines with wine experts from all over the world could not be beaten. I was particularly interested to learn the thoughts of my fellow judges on this year's burgeoning crop of New Zealand entries.
The country performed extremely well this year - 80 per cent of the wines entered won medals, up 35 per cent on the previous year.
New Zealand wineries Vavasour and Villa Maria beat off international competition to win the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir Trophies respectively.
International palates were generally united in declaring the general standard of the New Zealand category "above average". One Master of Wine described the 2007 sauvignons as "a tribute to what's going on in New Zealand wine"; another judge was struck by the diversity of style in the single estate sauvignons. "There were overt wines at one end of the spectrum and incredible delicacy at the other," he enthused. "New Zealand is really making some exciting stuff now."
Syrah from Hawkes Bay was another class that impressed.
Because of New Zealand's impressive track record, the judges had high expectations of the wines at this year's competition. But these were not altogether satisfied. "The wines were good, but I expected greatness," one judge noted. Others wondered whether the larger volumes issuing from New Zealand's rapid vineyard expansion were starting to affect the interest levels of its wines.
The non-estate sauvignons copped the most criticism for not being as exciting as they should be, and older pinot vintages were largely not considered to be holding up.
I was not alone in being struck by how many of the standard 2006 sauvignons were starting to lose their freshness by September, despite being sealed with screwcaps.
On the positive side, while there may not have been as many highs as hoped, there were far fewer lows within the New Zealand category.
No wine competition can be truly comprehensive, but the opinions of my international peers supported my own observations that some of our more mainstream wines have lost a bit of their pizzazz in recent years.
Our great wines are starting to shine, but the high standards on which the New Zealand wine industry has built its international success must be maintained if this success is to continue.
DRINKS LIST
NZ wines win accolades
As well as the two trophy winning wines highlighted by Jo Burzynska in her column, five other wines took gold medals at the IWSC, one of the world's top wine competitions.
These were the Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Sentinel Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Wild South Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2006, Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006 and Morton Estate Black Label Methode Traditionelle 2000.
New Zealand wines picked up 91 silver medals and 123 bronzes, meaning that 80 per cent of all our entries were judged medal worthy.
Full results are available online at www.iwsc.net
Cheers time
Tickets go on sale today for the Toast Martinborough festival, which features Hollie Smith among others. Ten vineyards and local and Wellington restaurants are combining to bring their wine and food together on November 18. See toastmartinborough.co.nz for more info.
Island opts out
The Waiheke Wine Festival planned for February has been cancelled. The island's winegrowers association says it has abandoned the event, partly because it had become too big for the organisation to deal with. A commercial festival may be staged further down the track.
INTERNATIONAL WINNERS
WORLD BEATING SAUVIGNON
Vavasour Awatere Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $20.50
This 2006 wowed the judges. Intense and elegant, it explodes with classic Awatere cut grass and tomato stalk character, with racy grapefruit acidity over ripe passionfruit, fresh herbs and notes of smoke and flint.
From branches of New World, Caro's, La Vino, Glengarry.
TOP INTERNATIONAL PINOT
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005 $30.99
Last year Villa Maria won the IWSC's Pinot Trophy with its Reserve Pinot Noir, and this year it's triumphed again with its supple and silky Cellar Selection Pinot. It's plump with concentrated juicy black cherry and plum fruit, ending on a superb finish.
Remaining stocks available though Glengarry and restaurants.
GOLDEN FIZZ
Morton Estate Black Label Methode Traditionnelle 2000 $34.95
This year Morton gained a gold medal with this Blanc de Noirs blend. Aromas of raspberry mille feuille lead to a rich savoury palate with pure raspberry fruit and a magnificent mousse.
From La Barrique, Kingsland Liquor, Glengarry, selected branches of Foodtown and Woolworths.
TextBox2: With more than 6000 entries this year, the IWSC is one of the world's largest wine competitions, making our success in scooping the sauvignon blanc and pinot noir trophies a major achievement.
