Uncharted terroir

Beneath ancient kahikateas and totaras in a picturesque glade on the banks of the Ruamahanga River, visitors to the recent Wairarapa Wine Harvest Festival sipped from an impressive crop of wines gathered from the area's lesser-known sub-regions.

Martinborough may be ahead in terms of the age of its vineyards and international prestige, but the event clearly illustrated how the newer wineries of wider Wairarapa are catching up.

Meandering southwards, the Ruamahanga links the three main winegrowing sub-regions of the Wairarapa, skirting Masterton, running through Gladstone and on past Martinborough before it meets the sea. Travelling by car, there's only around half an hour between each of them.

Martinborough was the initial focus of plantings in the valley, which made its name as New Zealand's prime mover in pinot noir. However, there's a greater area under vine outside its boundaries than within them now with the more recent establishment of a swathe of vineyards in the northern sub-regions. Although these more northerly vineyards experience marginally cooler conditions, all three areas appear to share more characteristics than differences in possessing a comparable climate and soils and being populated by predominantly boutique wineries.

Pinot noir is responsible for the region's best reds, while sauvignon blanc dominates its white wine production, joined in smaller quantities by chardonnay, riesling and pinot gris. In terms of style, Wairarapa wines are largely united in falling between the riper styles of Hawkes Bay and the fresh profile of Marlborough.

"We generally have younger vines than Martinborough," notes Gladstone producer Paddy Borthwick. This has meant its vignerons have had to be patient as their plantings accrue the vine age considered particularly important to pinot noir.

"But this has also enabled us to select the improved clonal material that has more recently become available."

"I've been excited by the quality that's coming from young vines," enthuses one of Gladstone's newest players, Angus Thomson of the organic estate, Urlar. "It's great to be part of putting a new sub-region on the map."

Martinborough has been getting more of a presence and become more integrated," explains Jane Cooper of Masterton's Matahiwi, who's been actively involved in the Wairarapa Wines Group founded four years ago.

There's work to be done in raising the profile of the northern Wairarapa to highlight that its best wines are now fit to rub shoulders with those of their renowned neighbour.

Last month's fourth annual festival was one such initiative. Highly enjoyable, easygoing and small in size, this would be an equally apt description of the local wine industry itself.

Sub-regional successes

Alternative style
Matahiwi Holly Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $24

Riper fruit, wild ferments and time in barrel has made for a weightier style of sauvignon from Opaki-based Matahiwi, the region's largest estate outside Martinborough. Its rich spicy, toasty characters and fleshy passionfruit are tempered by a vibrant spine of zesty lime. (From matahiwi.co.nz)

Nutty chardonnay
Borthwick Vineyard Wairarapa Chardonnay 2009 $25

One of Gladstone's leading lights, Paddy Borthwick has crafted a succulent and creamy textured chardonnay, with citrus and ripe nectarine fruit interleaved with toasty, savoury and nutty notes. (From Point Fine Wines, Caro's, Fine Wine Delivery Company.)

Lingering impression
Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 $45

Immediately appealing supple spiced cherry fruit, florals and nuances of chocolate are underpinned by an attractive freshness and complex lingering notes of mineral and toasty roasted spice in this intense and well-structured pinot from another good Gladstone estate. (From Artisan Wines, Merchant of Taupo.)