Among the many producers of New Zealand pinot noir, a handful stand out from the pack. One of those is Central Otago's Felton Road. It shines not just among New Zealand wines but all the emerging New World pinot superstars with significant ease - and without a lot of diva carry-on. Understatement and quiet confidence is part of its charm.
This is a producer that knows how to play to its considerable strengths. Its vineyards are planted on sheltered, north-facing slopes at the end of Bannockburn's Felton Rd; its soil profile contains a mix of minerals, sandy loams and clay; and there are enough warm, sunny days and cold nights to enhance the grape flavours - what the French would call "a perfect terroir".
The human factor adds another stellar dimension. Winemaker Blair Walter, measured, smart and open to any new ideas that will see Felton Road get even better, has been there since the beginning, in 1997. Viticulturist Gareth King arrived two years later and probably knows every vine by name. Owner Nigel Greening is a charismatic figure who, according to urban legend, loved the brand so much he had to own it - purchasing the winery in 2000.
It's the perfect trinity; an alliance of obsession, precision and flair producing great, consistent pinot noir.
"We're trying to capture the fruit at optimum maturity," says Walter. "Frankly, the viticulture is where it's at."