KEY POINTS:
Waiheke Island, with a population nudging 8000, is astonishingly well served by acclaimed winery restaurants. Let me declare an interest. Cable Bay is within walking distance of my house and others - Mudbrick, Te Whau, Te Motu, and Stonyridge - are neighbours and friends. They take money off me regularly for being fed and watered.
That ought not to preclude them from my prying eye and published words. There are other fine eateries on the island, some attached to tiny vineyards, but not with the same level of gravitas or opening hours of the aforementioned. Cable Bay wines are overseen by former Babich winemaker Neil Culley.
Island vines are supplemented by holdings in Marlborough which allows Cable Bay a good portfolio of whites and reds. There's a smart gewurztraminer and an especially moreish pinot noir to add to the rest of the mix. Almost everyone has either eaten at Mudbrick or attended a wedding there. Hopefully they've tried the wines.
Mudbrick wines have come of age and although production is small, quality is high. A stand-out wine for me is the syrah, a varietal doing particularly well on Waiheke.
Te Whau, perched on a headland at Putiki Bay serves up first-class food to accompany the sublime views and carefully crafted top-end wines. The vineyard, just metres from the sea, produces Te Whau's flagship red "The Point" and an expensive but superb chardonnay. Inland, not too far away, is the character tin shed, home to Te Motu and owned by New Zealand wine royalty, the Dunleavys.
Bordeaux varietals lead the charge and Te Motu's 1996 is one of the smartest New Zealand reds I've ever tried. Again production is small but attention to detail pays off, with wines made to age gracefully. Across the valley lies the legendary Stonyridge. The second established vineyard after Goldwater Estate, Stonyridge has developed an enviable reputation - as has owner Stephen White.
The second-tier Fallen Angel label draws primarily on fruit from elsewhere but the wines are made to the specific demands of Stonyridge style. But it is the iconic Bordeaux "Larose" which commands international respect and a price to match.
Most is snapped up by the loyalty club mailing list - you'll see it in restaurants for between $220 and $300.
Recommended
2007 Cable Bay Waiheke Island Five Hills
Made from merlot, malbec and cabernet, this is an elegant blend displaying ripe fruit, wild herbs and supple tannins.
Price: $33-35
2006 Mudbrick Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon
Gold medal winner at 2007 Bragato Wine Awards. From an excellent harvest on Waiheke. Sweet upfront fruit flavour, soft and appealing.
Price: $29
