Treasure hunters: Vintage shopping enthusiasts

Rose Matafeo in her favourite vintage skirt at This Is Not A Love Shop on K Rd. Photo / Greg Bowker

Vintage style endures every seasonal fashion trend, whether it be a treasured El Jay dress from the 1960s found in a specialised boutique, a pre-loved T-shirt from your local second-hand store or a five-year-old Karen Walker dress from an online auction. It's shopping for the dedicated and passionate - taking the time to slow down and dig through the racks to find that something special. With Hospice Awareness Week on until May 23 - secondhand shopping that helps out those in need - we talk to three vintage fans and find out their tips, favourite finds and shopping spots.

ROSE MATAFEO

Comedian and student Rose Matafeo likes things from the past. Her recent show at the International Comedy Festival was all about her penchant for the 1960s, from beehives to Burt Bacharach to beach party films starring Frankie Avalon - and her own wardrobe reflects this love of retro and times gone by. The 18-year-old vintage fan gives us some of her best - and funniest - vintage shopping tips.

How often do you wear vintage? I usually have a vintage piece in most of my outfits. I really like mixing it up and wearing old pieces with newer, simple stuff. Sometimes I surprise myself when I realise I'm dressed in all second-hand pieces. I come from a long line of bargain hunters, so the cheapskate in me will be like, "Yes! This whole outfit cost $15! Practically free!"

Your show was about your love of the 1960s - so are you partial to 60s clothes? I think one of the biggest reasons I chose to do a show about the 60s was so that I could wear fake eyelashes and ridiculously dated clothing onstage without people thinking I was completely insane... I lean more towards the early 60s style-wise. I love the progression throughout the decade - the skirts got shorter, the hair got bigger, and the clothes got weirder and weirder. I've always been interested in every other decade apart from the one I'm living in, it seems. My taste in films, music, books and style has always been a bit out of sync with other people. This is probably why I'm pretty much banned from putting my iPod on at parties now - Doris Day doesn't really raise the roof these days.

Where did your love of vintage shopping begin? What are your earliest memories of it? I think my love for vintage style in particular started from reading all of my mum's old Seventeen magazines from the 1978-83. They are filled with some of the most amazing styles that you see making a comeback - the only bad thing is that I fall in love with clothes that I can't ever find. My first piece of vintage was this stripy jumper from the 70s that used to belong to my uncle. I wore it pretty much every day when I was 12, it eventually got so worn out that my nan had to sew some sweet denim patches on elbows. I felt like a college professor - but a casual, hip one on account of the denim.

I love vintage clothes because... they're affordable, good quality and always unique. Great style is timeless, so what's better than being a stylish time traveller everyday? It's like being Doctor Who, but with less Billie Piper and weird aliens with no faces.

Your best vintage shopping tip? Don't spend too much! I suppose if you love the piece and you NEED it in your life, then it's worth it. For me though, half of the fun is being able to find something which is awesome and cheap. Oh, and make sure it fits you. Don't fool yourself into thinking it does just because you want it. It will only end in tears and a lot of broken zips in the changing rooms. Wearing vintage can sometimes look wrong - what is your best tip for getting it right? Don't try hard to convince yourself that something looks good just because it's vintage. Ugly clothing has always been made, so just because someone may have hiked the price and called it vintage doesn't necessarily mean it's going to look great. I think one of my first second-hand duds was this emerald green corduroy jacket. In theory, it was good - but it just made me look like a hobbit. I tried for about five years to convince myself that it looked good, but I had to eventually donate it to the dress-up box. I still think about it every day though.

Who does vintage style well? I think the people who do vintage style the best are the ones I look to for inspiration and general worship. For the better part of my teenage years, I've wished that I could be a Hitchcock blonde (or brunette, but he didn't like them as much). Tippi Hedren, Grace Kelly, Kim Novak, Ingrid Bergman, Vera Miles... they all had the ability to come off looking incredibly stylish and pulled together, despite the fact that in every film they're either being chased, murdered or attacked by birds.

Tell us about your favourite vintage find. My favourite vintage find is this skirt that I found in the Rainbow Op-Shop on K Road. It was one dollar! I bought it on my lunch break from when I went to school at Auckland Girls' Grammar last year. That was the real danger about going to a school so close to K Road, because it meant I would always end up spending all my bus money on clothes. I love this skirt, because it's slightly below the knee which means it's great for winter with boots and wool stockings. I used to be scared of anything that wasn't knee-length and up because it wasn't "cool", but now I'm digging the mid-calf length. "Amish sex appeal" is definitely the inspiration for the season.

Favourite vintage stores? Search and Destroy, Vixen, Rainbow Op-Shop, Hunters and Collectors in Wellington ... and that shop in St Kevin's whose name I can't remember. But it has the most amazing vintage clothes, furniture and decor. I basically want to live in the shop, but apparently that's frowned upon.

What vintage spot do you love that most Aucklanders wouldn't know about? My favourite place in the world is the Te Atatu Peninsula Church Shop. It's criminally cheap and sometimes you can hit the jackpot. I scored a full on skirt suit there for six bucks, it makes me look like a flight attendant and/or Margaret Thatcher.

Do you shop for vintage online? I can't say that I have, but that's more to do with my fear of online shopping. I occasionally do buy vintage on Trade Me, but I much prefer to physically see the clothes rather than through tiny thumbnails. It's easier to tell if the clothes are good quality if you actually have them in your hands as well. God, I sound like a mum.

What is your favourite place for vintage accessories? I would have to say my mum's and grandmother's jewellery boxes are my favourite place for vintage accessories. I don't accessorise much, but when I do I usually just go for brooches and necklaces. I love wearing something with a history behind or something that is special to people in my family. That is unless I lose it.

What new vintage spot should we know about? I can't think of any to be honest - if anyone finds out, let me know. Is there a great vintage shopping spot out of town that you would like to share? Paeroa is not only good for L&P, it's also a brilliant vintage shopping spot. Not only for clothes, but for everything. I bought my brother the coolest birthday present there, it was this little mini bar suitcase from the 60s which has four little glasses in it and room for bottles. Drinking in public has never looked so classy.

HILAIRIE FIELD

Hilairie Field has been collecting vintage for about 15 years, with a vast collection that spreads over several rooms. Her penchant is for glamorous pieces from the 1940s and 1950s, tulle gowns and feminine accessories that she sources from a variety of places. When she's not out collecting, Field works at Trelise Cooper's Parnell store, where even the new can act as a source for her collection.

"I have bought some future vintage since I have been working at Trelise Cooper and as you can imagine, it's hard not to!"

She tells us more about her collection.

Why do you collect vintage? I collect vintage because of the originality, beauty of fabric and style of the garment. Many of the garments have had hours of fine hand-beading and sequinned work done on them, making them the treasured pieces they are.

How would you describe your vintage style? High-end. I collect vintage ball gowns, wedding gowns, cocktail hats, gloves and beautiful lingerie. Tell me about your history with vintage - where did your love of it begin? What are your earliest memories of vintage? I was left beautiful clothing, hats, gloves and handbags by an extremely well-dressed and well-groomed aunt-in-law.

How many pieces would you say you have? Where do you keep them all? I've lost count now as most of it is stored away.

Do you wear any of your pieces, or buy vintage to be worn as opposed to collected? I collect mainly the 1940s and 1950s era of clothing and the surviving pieces are usually very small in size. I use the evening bags, costume jewellery and gloves as usually the dresses are too fragile and need delicate care when washing.

Where do find your pieces? What spots are your favourite for finding something special? Antique fairs, vintage stores here and overseas, Trade Me and markets like they used to have at Alexandra Park on Sundays. It is hard to pinpoint one particular store as they all have such variations in eras. Trade Me would probably be the best for a beginner collector.

What catches your eye when looking for things to add to your collection? Always beautiful fabrics, feminine styles and the individuality of garments from the 40s and 50s era.

What would be your best vintage shopping tip, for those who are interested in collecting pieces? Only buy what you really like.

Who do you think does vintage style well? Dita Von Teese.

What vintage shop do you love that most Aucklanders wouldn't know about? That would be telling!

Do you shop for vintage online? Yes - on Trade Me.

Is there a great vintage shopping spot out of town that you would like to share? I think Auckland is the best. It is more expensive the further south you go.

What are some of the key pieces in your vintage wardrobe? The evening and wedding gowns. So elegant, pretty, feminine and made with divine, sumptuous fabrics for the individual lady.

Tell us about your favourite piece in the collection. I have two favourite pieces. A black silk faille hand-beaded gown from Hollywood that has matching full length hand-beaded gloves. The other is a pale pink silk satin gown with a totally beaded and sequinned bodice. Both superb gowns.

NATALIE SMITH

Writer, co-founder of press and management company Smith & Sumner and blogger for somuchtotellyou.co.nz, Natalie Smith has a variety of vintage pieces in her wardrobe, preferring to wear them one at a time with newer pieces.

Smith (who turns 26 today, happy birthday!) is based in Auckland, but likes to shop beyond the central city vintage stores. She talks us through her favourite haunts.

Tell us about your favourite vintage find. The special dress. I found this in a Savemart in Blenheim. It's a cream, entirely lace dress, handmade with a slightly high collar, sixties shape, long sleeves with pearl buttons. It cost $15 and always, always gets comments. I bought it about three years ago, and I will never ever let it out of my wardrobe - it's the only thing I don't let friends borrow. I don't wear it too often, but every time I do I have a wonderful night. I'm going to wear it for my special birthday dinner this week.

Where did your love of vintage shopping begin? What are your earliest memories of vintage? I didn't have a huge clothing allowance growing up or anything, so it was partly a necessity. My mum liked very ... sensible clothing. I wanted to wear band teeshirts and jeans and sneakers, but she liked me to wear navy jumpers and moleskins. I remember very clearly when I started buying vintage (well it wasn't really vintage, more opshopping) - it was from a Salvation Army in the town I grew up in. I found a perfectly fitting pair of seventies, brown cords. I loved them to bits and would wear them with a striped teeshirt and chucks. I was 14.

I love vintage clothes because... They're cheap and no one else has one, and because it's like a treasure hunt.

Your best vintage shopping tip? Go slowly. Never buy manmade fabrics and remember you can get things altered to fit perfectly - it's more about finding a good detail or fabric for me - the fit is not so important.

Wearing vintage can sometimes look wrong - what is your best tip for getting it right? Getting it tailored, altered or taken in. And also mixing it up, wearing a vintage silk blouse with new, tailored pants and heels; wearing a vintage woollen cape over skinny jeans.

Who does vintage style well? My sister has the most amazing eye. She's 22 and lives in Wellington. She manages to find the best things, and luckily she shops for me too - a 60s cape in perfect condition for $10 on Trade Me, a pair of navy suede Zambesi boots for $80, beaded cashmere cardigans, biker boots, the perfect denim shirt. I would love to steal her entire wardrobe. I also lived with a great vintage shopper in Sydney, her name's Faye and she's worked at vintage stores in London and Sydney for the past 10 years. She had an entire bookcase with colour coded, immaculately folded vintage T-shirts. Famous people: I like how Daisy Lowe wears vintage, and Chloe Sevigny. Ooh, also, Liz Goldwyn, heir to the movie dynasty who founded Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer has the most incredible vintage collection, all really high end, amazing lingerie.

What are your favourite vintage stores? Tango on Little High St in Auckland is the bees knees - internationally sourced, high quality, high end and beautifully looked after clothes, accessories and shoes. Places like Tatty's on Ponsonby Rd are great - but I love the hunt, so my favourites are big barns of vintage stuff that you really have to dig through - Savemart, Seekers, Salvation Army, garage sales and hospice stores.

What vintage shop do you love that most Aucklanders wouldn't know about? Savemart in Northcote.

Where do you shop for vintage online? I love Trade Me, it's the best. Many vintage traders also sell on Trade Me so it's a good place to find things. I also like Perth-based ClaireInc.com, and eBay stores like Liebemarlene Vintage or American Archive.

What is your favourite place for vintage accessories? Junk stores and antique shops - my favourite one is in Woodville in the north Wairarapa. It's called Village Traders, and it's insane.

Is there a great vintage shopping spot out of town that you would like to share? My sister and I are going to tour the South Island in a month, using opshopdirectory.co.nz as a guide.