Toto

By CARROLL DU CHATEAU for canvas


There is something seriously sexy about a truly sophisticated restaurant. At Toto in Nelson St the first thing to lift the place out of the mundane was our waiter. Dressed like a tall schoolgirl in a white shirt and pigtails, with a black apron pulled tight round her hips and sporting what looked like one of my old school ties, she was incredibly chic.

She also knew her stuff. Her recommendation of the special entree confirmed she actually ate the dishes she was serving. A barely cooked, boned fillet of smoked eel (how on earth can anyone bone an eel?) resting on homemade, wide strips of pasta (pappardelle) that had been tossed in a champagne/fish sauce sounded fine. It turned out delectable - and my undoing in terms of over-ordering.

There was other evidence of a superior establishment - the casual elegance of our fellow guests in their jerseys, long shorts and boat shoes. The arty menus, complete with a map of Italy, descriptions of the regions and their food, and offerings that take you back to that little place in Castellano in a blink.

After some holey ciabatta with the greenest extra-virgin olive oil we've seen, I started with the special pasta (eel etc at $18.50). Brian began with the Frittura di Calamari in Crosta di Semolino ($17.50). This too was superb, crisp on the outside, moist and tender inside those polenta crumbs. It came with a sweet-sour sauce which he especially liked.

Our RDM Reserva Chianti ($70) was robust enough to match the gutsy Italian flavours, our glasses were a decent size without being buckets, our truant schoolgirl didn't slosh in too much when we were deep in conversation.

Although my main course, Costoletto di Vitello ripene di proscuitto ($30.50) - veal cutlets wrapped in proscuitto and crumbed, then served on a bed of pureed peas - was the high point of a magnificent meal, Brian's choice overshadowed it.

His Zuppa di Pesce alla Toto ($36), their signature dish, arrived on a high stand with sliced crostini tucked below. There were mussels, prawns, grouper, all looking madly authentic swimming in a classic, oily, garlicky soup and which shrugged off their shells at the touch of a fork. Everything was cooked to perfection, the fish flavours were not overpowered, yet the zuppa hung together - the mark of a genius chef.

Even our Spinaci al limon, ($7.50) served cold (which Pigtails assured us was not a mistake) fitted perfectly.

After all of this we were seriously stonkered. Three scoops of sorbet and gelati ($11) later we disappeared into the night, vowing to return to Toto next time we have an important celebration. At $216 for two it may cost more than your average jammed bistro, but that $8-$10 a dish extra lifted the meal from mundane to magnificent. It's certainly cheaper than heading for Italy, which is the next best thing.

We might even think ahead and book for a Thursday or Saturday evening, when they have an opera singer wandering among the tables.

Open: Dinner 7 days, Lunch Mon-Fri

Cost: Entrees, mains and desserts with one bottle of Italian chianti, $216

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