KEY POINTS:
Things are different at 30,000 feet. Complete strangers divulge their deepest secrets mid-flight. Quality control plunges as you find yourself consuming filmic fare that would have had you reaching for the sick bag on the ground. And those glasses of wine imbibed to help time fly by just don't quite taste the same.
Although there's been little scientific study into what happens to our sense of smell- and consequently our ability to taste - in the air, the way we perceive flavours and textures when we're flying definitely changes. Research conducted by Air New Zealand into this phenomenon suggested that it's the dryness of the cabin environment that's the seat of this issue.
Onboard humidity can be as low as 4 per cent. This compares with averages on the ground, which for Auckland range between 61 and 84 per cent. It's this that keeps you reaching for the water and slathering on the moisturiser in the air, and makes certain styles of wine taste worse than others.
"This dryness makes tannins appear more astringent, further drying the mouth," explains Air New Zealand wine consultant and former In-flight Service Director, Jim Harre. "It also means that wines that have good acidity appear fresh, juicy and more appealing, so we're looking to select wines for the airline that have soft tannins and fresh acidity."
The arid atmosphere of the aircraft also dries out your snout, the location of the olfactory bulb responsible for sensing odours. This produces an effect akin to having a heavy head cold, dulling and distorting what we taste.
"Primary fruit flavours seem to remain relatively unchanged, while secondary characters are altered far more," notes Harre. "So the wines we choose need plenty of fruit and we avoid more worked styles, such as chardonnays with lots barrel influence, which don't tend to work as well in the air."
Having one's sense of smell and taste deadened was, no doubt, something of a blessing in disguise in the past, given the unappetising rations once regularly served up on many a flight. However, an increasing amount of airlines have now significantly upped the ante of their in-flight fodder, with a number now employing specialist wine consultants like Harre. So today, wines poured on board are more likely to be a source of enjoyment than functioning solely to assist with inducing oblivion!
This year the quality of our national carrier's wine list was recognised when Air New Zealand won three awards at UK Business Traveller magazine's annual Cellars in the Sky competition, scooping Best Business Class Wine Cellar, Most Original Business Class Cellar and Best Business Class Red.
We're lucky that many of the airlines covering the country's international routes also offer similarly quality focused selections. One of my other personal favourites is Singapore Airlines, which has been listing some classy cuvees across their cabins for some years now, courtesy of top flight consultants such as Decanter magazine's Steven Spurrier and Australian Master of Wine and winemaker, Michael Hill Smith.
The sweet and spritzy riesling served in Singapore's economy class, which was so well suited to in-flight sipping, certainly enlivened my tired palate on a recent epic-length journey from the UK. Its low alcohol may have prevented me from spilling out personal stories to the stranger sitting beside me. But sadly it still didn't prevent me from indulging in those terrible films.
HIGH FLYERS
Here are some great new vintages of wines to be found on Air New Zealand's in-flight list, which will taste just as good, if not better on terra firma.
Main Divide Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $19.95
You can tell if an airline cares about its wines by its economy selection, which for Air New Zealand includes some extremely creditable lines such as the Main Divide Sauvignon Blanc from Pegasus Bay's second label. Its zesty lemon driven 2007 has a whiff of smoke and a seasoning of spice over punchy passion fruit.
From fine wine stores.
Spy Valley Marlborough Riesling 2007 $19.95
With its crisp limey acidity and pure apricot fruit run through with threads of mineral and floral, the new vintage of Spy Valley's consistently impressive riesling should be as attractive at altitude as it is down here on the ground.
From Fine Wine Delivery Company, Glengarry, Village Winery, Wine Vault.
Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $38
Served in business class, this mid-weight Central Otago pinot possesses plenty of flight-friendly fresh and soft cherry fruit. This is supported by an earthy complexity and a hint of spice that leads to its rich mocha finish.
Stockists include Fine Wine Delivery Company, Glengarry, Village Winery, Wine Vault.
