Tighten your belt, the waist is back

If a belted hourglass figure is out of the question for you, there are plenty of other options. Picture / Getty Images

You'd imagine that putting on a belt would be a fairly simple matter. After all, you just wrap it around your waist and do it up. But fashion trends are not letting the style-conscious off that easily. And these trends are bound to have some belt-buyers in a bit of a tizz.

You've read all the reports and you know the waist is back. You also know that the belt is becoming, according to international magazines, bigger than the must-have handbag.

Detailing such as big buckles and other wild decorations have jumped the evolutionary divide, mutating to the formerly humble belt.

Blame it on boho, with her embellished ethnic and vintage numbers.

As well, most local designers and many of the fashion chainstores are creating their own belts to suit their specific styling.

So how do you know which belt is your best bet? And what are you going to do with the thing once you've got it?

Worldwide, there are several disparate looks being touted on waists. There's the skinnier belt that sits just under the breasts on the top half of the ribcage, creating an empire-line outfit. Then there's the low-slung remainder of last season's boho madness, sitting lazily around the hips or lower.

And, oh, the variety. There are thin patent numbers, rough leather belts, gold disco belts, pastel pink and teal 80s belts, pretty sashes tied up in bows, and large fabric obi-style belts.

Then there are next season's monster statement belts - they're huge, they're wildly decorated and they cinch you right on the waistline, almost like a corset.

Consider what James Laver, a British art critic and fashion historian, said about wavering waistlines.

Forty years ago he had a theory that after a period of social upheaval the waist was always in "the wrong place", citing examples such as the empire-line trend after the French Revolution and the 1920s ultra-low, flapper dress waists after World War I.

So there are several issues for the average belt buyer to address.

First, which belt should you be wearing and where? And secondly, if you cinch your hips or your upper ribcage rather than your true waist, will you be contributing to the decline of modern society as we know it?

The first question is relatively easy to answer. It all comes down to your own figure. The high-rising belt suits almost everyone, because your upper ribcage will always be one of the thinnest parts of your anatomy.

It's good for those without hourglass figures, with real-life stomachs and hips, because when you fake your waist high, all the softer bits are hidden.

The only people who may have a problem are those with XL cleavage. And the only real challenge is getting your belt - and a relatively thin one is usually best - to stay where you put it.

One woman who attempted this look found herself having to breathe out heavily at regular intervals to ensure her new waistline didn't fall. The other option is to do up the belt tightly and not move about too vigorously.

Uncomfortable but do-able in the name of fashion. This look is often best on shift or shirt dresses.

Much easier to pull off is the low-slung belt, which is also a flattering option for most figures. It's as becoming as the hipster jean on most women, and it's a look that's been around for a while, allowing some of us a few happy, fat seasons. A thicker belt is better down here and your hips will hold it in place.

The last belted look is a large piece of fabric or leather around your real waist.

This is probably the least popular look of all. That's because the other two looks involve creating a fake waist, whereas this one emphasises your real one.

Accentuating your womanly curves is all good if you're size 12 or less and it's a look particularly suited to the traditional New Zealand pear shape.

The pear-shaped will also be pleased to know that 50s-inspired full skirts and shapely pencil skirts are going to do them a favour this winter. Since 1951, when the average waist size was an hourglass 27in (69cm) , our torsos have evolved, expanding these days to an average 34in (86cm).

So don't worry too much if you're not ready to throw a giant, wildly decorated statement-making piece of leather or fabric around your middle. Just stick with the smaller belts - they'll add some spice to your look without drawing attention to your softer bits.

And now to the second, more complicated question - the one about whether shifting waistlines indicate impending doom. Laver also said that the erogenous zone is always shifting, and it is the business of fashion to pursue it, without ever catching it up. Which we take to mean that you can wear your favourite accessory wherever you want.