Theories work for winemaker

2005 Providence Private Reserve. Photo / Glenn Jeffrey

Wine should represent the owner, the vintage and the place it is grown."

"I don't put nets over my grapes because you lose 20 per cent of the sun."

"If you say the wine is feminine it's a turn-off for men."

"Cabernet sauvignon doesn't grow well in New Zealand, it's always green and grassy, I think cabernet franc is the wine we should be making."

These are bizarre, contentious, but very honest observations from one of our most enigmatic winemakers. You may not have heard of Jim Vuletic or of his expensive Matakana red wine, Providence Private Reserve.

There's a good reason for that - most of it is sold overseas and you may stumble across it in some of North America's and Europe's finest restaurants.

The Auckland lawyer, a Rumpole-type figure, is engaging, obsessive and utterly focused on producing Bordeaux-style wines of elegance and finesse. His personal favourite is the St Emilion superstar Cheval Blanc. He's quick to point out he's not trying to replicate it - merely create a wine that is stylistically similar.

With this in mind, the Providence vineyard comprises 2.5ha of cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and syrah, planted on a north-facing, sunny slope with clay soils of volcanic origin, high in mineral content and trace elements that impart subtle, silky, elegant aromas and flavours.

Vuletic is a true non-interventionist in both vineyard and winery. Herbicides are not used and the wines are sulphur-free. Providence has a cult following in parts of Asia, Europe, Britain and the United States.

The first vintage was 1993, the year some syrah vines were planted, although the Providence syrah did not emerge until some years later. Those wines are more Rhone-style rather than big and aggressive.

Providence may not fit many people's budget but risk-takers will be rewarded.

Recommended

2005 Providence Private Reserve
Stunning wine from a remarkable vintage. Old world feel with concentration power and superb balance. More cabernet franc than merlot, with 10 per cent malbec. Smooth, velvet palate.
Price: $119

2006 Margan Cabernet Sauvignon
Family-owned Hunter Valley (Australia) vineyard with 35-year-old vines. Full-bodied with herb and wild berry flavours, subtle vanillin oak touches.
Price: $32