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Home / Lifestyle

The rise of vampire facials — and how to get one safely

By Susanna Galton
Daily Telegraph UK·
1 May, 2024 12:02 AM7 mins to read

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There are concerns over vampire facials after three women in New Mexico contracted HIV from an unregulated spa. Photo / 123rf

There are concerns over vampire facials after three women in New Mexico contracted HIV from an unregulated spa. Photo / 123rf

After three women in the United States contracted HIV after undergoing the beauty treatment, could it happen in the UK?

It was Kim Kardashian who first brought the “vampire facial” to our attention back in 2013, after she posted pics on social media following the procedure. The treatment is now widely available around the world.

Essentially, it’s a microneedling treatment using platelet-rich plasma (PRP), a component of your blood said to rejuvenate the skin when injected back into it. The facials have gained popularity, with fans claiming they improve the skin’s texture and tone.

But, with the news that three women in New Mexico contracted HIV after undergoing a vampire facial at an unregulated spa, there are now understandable concerns surrounding the treatment and whether that could happen in the UK.

Kim Kardashian first brought the vampire facial to our attention in 2013. Photo / Kim Kardashian
Kim Kardashian first brought the vampire facial to our attention in 2013. Photo / Kim Kardashian
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What is a vampire facial?

The technique, formally known as PRP therapy, involves drawing a small amount of the patient’s own blood, typically from their arm, and then processing it in a centrifuge (a lab device that separates fluids by spinning them at high speed), to isolate the plasma. This is then injected back into the skin.

“The aim is to improve skin by stimulating the production of collagen and other proteins as well as triggering other beneficial skin cell functions,” explains Dr Dev Patel, an aesthetic and regenerative medicine specialist at Perfect Skin Solutions. “PRP had been used in dermatology and other medical fields for over two decades prior to entering the cosmetics industry and then being labelled the ‘vampire facial’. But scientific evidence supporting some of the claims is limited, and the efficacy and safety remains a topic of debate in the aesthetic medical community.”

What went wrong in the United States?

The three American women are believed to be the first documented cases of HIV contracted through a cosmetic procedure using needles. An investigation began in 2018 and the spa was closed. The US federal health agency, the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), could not ascertain the precise source of the contamination, but found the clinic reused disposable equipment intended for one-time use.

Unlabelled tubes of blood were left lying on a kitchen counter, others were stored along with food in a refrigerator, and unwrapped syringes in drawers and bins were all discovered during an inspection of the spa.

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“Evidence suggests that contamination from an undetermined source at the spa during spring and summer 2018 resulted in HIV-1 transmission to these three patients,” the agency confirmed.

Because the women were theoretically using their own blood, it’s likely the HIV infection derived from a needle being used on them that had previously been used by a person with HIV. An HIV-negative person has a one-in-160 chance of getting HIV each time they use a needle previously used by someone with HIV. The risk is higher for another common needle-sharing infection, hepatitis C, where it is one in 50.

It’s likely the HIV infection derived from a needle being used on them had previously been used by a person with HIV. Photo / 123rf
It’s likely the HIV infection derived from a needle being used on them had previously been used by a person with HIV. Photo / 123rf

Should women who have had the treatment be worried?

Quite possibly. “It’s sadly true that here in Britain, cosmetic treatments are very poorly regulated, if at all,” says Patel. “We are one of few countries in the world where the law does not protect the public from harm.

“The sheer number of complications patients come to me with from other clinics reflects the fact that more work needs to be done to make the world of cosmetic treatments safer. Some progress has been made; as of a few years ago, the rules changed with regards to clinical PRP treatments for medical purposes and it is now a criminal offence to offer this treatment if the facility is not Care Quality Commission (CQC) approved,” he says.

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Whilst PRP use as a medicine — for example, injected into ailing joint — is now regulated, this does not apply when PRP is used for cosmetic purposes such as the vampire facial. Botox and fillers for cosmetic purposes are similarly unregulated, therefore unqualified practitioners are not doing anything illegal.

This could “absolutely happen here in the UK”, says Ashton Collins, the director of Save Face, a government-approved register of accredited practitioners.

“There have been multiple cases of blood-borne viruses being transmitted via tattoo needles,” she says. “The UK aesthetic market is largely unregulated, which means anyone can offer these treatments regardless of their training or experience; they do not even have to be insured.

“Because of this, there are thousands of people with no healthcare training offering treatments without conforming to strict infection control measures. HIV transmission from contaminated blood through unsterile injections is a known risk of such treatments and people should take care to only entrust their health and appearance to regulated healthcare professionals who have been assessed and verified to ensure they are compliant with all necessary infection prevention and control measures.”

Should vampire facials be banned?

Patel believes people should carefully consider their decision to have these facials, not only because of the safety risks in non-medical facilities, but because he doubts the efficacy. “I’m not convinced that these facials deliver anything beyond the results microneedling would on its own, which in itself is a very good treatment.”

He points out our stem cell production decreases significantly from our late teens, so by injecting the plasma isolated from, say, a 40-year-old, the results might be limited. “My personal opinion is that there are much more efficacious options now delivering far more impressive results.”

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Collins says the risks associated with these procedures can be minimised when carried out correctly in a safe, sterile environment.

“Anyone offering these treatments should legally have to demonstrate that they have been trained in the procedure, are insured, and have a qualification in infection prevention and control as an absolute bare minimum,” she says.

Check if the clinic is CQC-registered before you book any kind of aesthetic treatment involving needles. Photo / Getty Images
Check if the clinic is CQC-registered before you book any kind of aesthetic treatment involving needles. Photo / Getty Images

How can you make sure you go to a safe clinic where you won’t be at risk?

“Any treatment that involves blood, poses potential risk to the patient and staff from blood-borne infection such as HIV, hepatitis B and C, and the practitioner must be fully trained in infection control practices and this should not be considered anything other than a medical treatment,” says Patel.

Dr Aggie Zatonska is an ear, nose and throat (ENT) surgeon and the director of Atelier skin clinic in Egham, Surrey. She advises checking that the clinic is CQC registered before you book any kind of aesthetic treatment involving needles (you can check on their website). These clinics will adhere to rigorous infection control rules to safeguard patients against cross-contamination.

“They should follow stringent protocols for sterilisation, sanitation, and hygiene practices, ensuring a safe and sterile environment for medical procedures and consultations. By upholding these standards, CQC-registered clinics prioritise patient wellbeing and mitigate the risk of infection.”

Finding a practitioner via Save Face will mean they have been assessed and verified to ensure they are appropriately trained and insured, using safe products, and operating from a safe and hygienic clinic.

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Thinking of booking a vampire facial or any other aesthetic treatment?

Here are Collins’ tips on how to stay safe:

  • Research your chosen practitioner, go to their website to check testimonials and see examples of their work.
  • Always visit a trained healthcare practitioner such as a doctor, nurse, dentist or prescribing pharmacist.
  • Depending on the treatment, check the website to see if they are CQC registered, and for extra care, cross-reference against the CQC site.
  • Arrange a consultation and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Discuss your concerns and desired outcomes.
  • Ask what products they use and what aftercare will be available.
  • Ask to see copies of training and insurance certificates.
  • Don’t be afraid to walk away if you do not feel comfortable.
  • Do not have treatments at home.
  • Avoid cheap treatments and time-limited offers; it may indicate they are cutting corners.
  • Know the full name and credentials of the person treating you — and have their contact details.
  • Do not visit a practitioner who operates only on social media that will not disclose this information.
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