KEY POINTS:
Since I was last here four years ago the wines seem more soulful, more subtle and, as a result, more exciting." High praise indeed for Central Otago, from the high priestess of international wine writers.
Englishwoman Jancis Robinson can, with a phrase of praise or damning disregard, make your wine an international success or cast it into oblivion. She was commenting on the 2007 vintage of Central Otago pinot noirs at a recent three-day symposium and celebration of the region's pinots.
Two hundred-plus people, from as far afield as Japan, Canada, Australia, Britain and the United States gathered with Central Otago winemakers to enthuse, analyse, categorise and discuss the merits, strengths and weaknesses of the high-profile wine region. Determined to do for New Zealand pinot what Marlborough has done for the country's sauvignon blanc, the enthusiastic and committed producers of the lower South Island have the bit between their teeth.
Although a good deal of international praise has been heaped on Central Otago pinots, much of it has been with some reservation. They are often regarded as fruit bombs overloaded with strong plum and cherry flavours that dominate, allowing little or no room for subtlety, harmony and restrained elegance.
Compared to the great pinot noirs of France's Burgundy region (not called pinot noir in France - just burgundy) the Central Otago offerings at times could be so fruit-forward as to taste like some deconstructed form of Ribena. But vine age, careful viticultural techniques and the ability to adapt, learn quickly and a non-interventionist wine-making policy have allowed the wines to be more restrained, mellow and downright interesting.
The burning question for New Zealand producers is whether they should strive to emulate the great burgundies of France or celebrate our point of difference.
Recommended
2007 Mount Edward Central Otago Pinot Noir
Beautifully structured wine with typical southern rich plum flavour, a dash of spice, and long savoury finish.
Price: $45
2007 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Otago Pinot Noir
Highly perfumed floral with spice and dried herbs. Rich, deep colour with fine tannins, concentration and complexity.
Price: $55
