The Poverty Bay Club, Gisborne

The tempura smoked eel salad. Picture / Kerry Fox

The Poverty Bay Club (PBC) building, erected in 1898, stands proudly showing off its whitewash and neat fretwork verandas opposite one of the Red Barns. It is a contrast that amuses.

More appealing is the knowledge that one of Gisborne's fine historical landmarks has been restored and open for the public to enjoy.

Women were not admitted into the PBC until 1988, so mother and I are pleased to be able to dine in the charmingly restored library without fear of being asked politely to leave. To sit and imbibe in this room surrounded by leather-bound volumes of Punch, and kauri plaques listing former club presidents does give a girl a sense of kick-arse worldiness.

Joerg Lindner, the German-born executive chef, has pleasingly created a modern menu which would not be out of place in a good metropolitan restaurant. Despite Gisborne's geographical remoteness, there is ready access also to the fresh bounty of land and sea.

We are taken by David's entree of tempura smoked eel with roasted beetroot carpaccio and wasabi creme fraiche. This delivered all the sensorial qualities that allow such an innovative union to work. The light, crisp batter, the smokiness of the eel — an iconoclastic surprise — cut with the sweet/tangy cleaness of the thinly sliced beets. Japanese inspired East Coast style.

Our herbed chickpea fritters came with a generous slab of grilled Kapiti chevre tihi, rocket, slow-roasted tomatoes, dressed with balsamic and honey glaze.

For the main course the gentlemen both chose the anchovy and garlic roasted lamb rump — thick slices of sweet, pink meat on a Provencale vegetable ragout of red peppers, courgettes, tomatoes and olives.

My seared Akaroa salmon fillet came on crushed new potatoes with broad beans and garden peas folded through and salsa verde. Simply composed, this should have been a sure bet. The salmon was a tad more cooked and the skin not as crisp as I would have liked but these were minor quibbles as it was still a tasty dish. I enjoyed the mix of carb and pulses with the richness of the coral flesh.

Mum was particularly keen on the roasted blue nose with new potatoes, baby bok choy and oriental sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked, with moist big flakes and was likened to hapuka. The spuds, greens and juices were perfect accompaniments. Dad ordered a side of sauteed vegetables to sate his appetite for greens.

The Millton Viognier Briants Vineyard 2003, a variety described by the winemaker as "a dry wine with a haunting floral scent reminiscent of riesling and a very long spicy aftertaste not unlike gewurztraminer yet with the full body of a fine chardonnay", was our pick of the Gisborne whites on offer. The PBC wine list provides a wide choice of New Zealand and Australian labels along with a good collection of French Bordeaux reds and single malts.

As the light faded outside our bay window table, we decided we couldn't resist a sweet finale before moving through to the former billiards room with its exquisite glass-domed ceiling and the jazz trio. Pistachio nougatine semifreddo with berry coulis — a creamy confection — and the poached nectarine, homemade ice cream and biscotti to share had us happily licking spoons.

The locally produced TW (Tietjen Witters) botrytis chardonnay 2003, which we were introduced to at that weekend's Taste Gisborne festival, would be a delicious match to these desserts.

The restaurant offers Pandoro bread, Atomic coffee and Antipodes mineral water.

Delores, our waitperson for the evening was efficient, obliging and with a welcoming smile.

Worthy of a visit if you are lucky enough to be catching the sunrise on the East Coast.

WHERE: The Poverty Bay Club, 38 Childers Rd, cnr Customhouse St, Gisborne. (06) 868 9179 info@thepovertybayclub.com
OUR MEAL: $208.50 for 4; entrees $12.50-17; mains $18.50-$29.50; desserts $11.50; cheese $14.50.
OUR WINES: by the glass $6.50-$11, by the bottle $26-$79; French reds $20-$198