KEY POINTS:
Mention the T word and the uninitiated may head for the hills. But for those in search of real individuality in their wines, terroir(pronounced tare-wah), is a key concept.
There's no English equivalent of this French word, which translated literally means soil. But terroir is more than that. It relates to the influence of the entire natural environment in which a vine is grown _ soil, topography and climate, and the way these all interact.
When there's a synergy between these elements they can imbue a distinctive character to a wine that can't be replicated elsewhere and recurs regardless of variations in vintage, viticulture or winemaking.
Scientific evidence to support the idea of terroir is scant and there are those that scoff that it's nothing more than mythmaking. But empirical evidence suggests there's something in it, amply illustrated by tastings such as the lineup of pinot noirs from Burgundy's revered Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru vineyard, presented at last month's Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration.
Hosted by a region that has swiftly become recognised for its own vibrant versions of pinot noir, it's a tasting I'd wager would overturn the doubts of many a terroir sceptic.
This piece of land of less than 10ha has close to a thousand years of winemaking history.
All six wines from the same vintage were clearly cut of the same elegantly restrained cloth but varied from the airy Domaine de l'Arlot to the more oak-influenced Domaine Robert Arnoux and the understated power of the Domaine de la Romanee Conti.
One intriguing exploration of terroir and winemaker influence is to be found in three recently released wines from the Calvert vineyard in Central Otago. Felton Road's Blair Walter, Craggy Range's Adrian Baker and Pyramid Valley's Mike Weersing all received identical fruit, crafting it in their own ways. The results, featured in this week's recommendations, make for thought-provoking drinking.
Terroirist wines
These wines from the same vineyard share some unmistakable family traits, but three different winemakers have arrived at notably different expressions.
Pyramid Valley Growers Collection Calvert Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $52
The most ethereal and delicately fruited, with a beguilingly floral nose flowing into a lively, silky, acid-driven palate strewn with rose petals and carnations.
From Kemp Rare Wines and Caro's.
Felton Road Calvert Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $57
A sweetly spiced bouquet with a whiff of smoke, replicated on its smooth satin-like palate.
From First Glass, Caro's, La Barrique, Maison Vauron, Fine Wine Delivery Company.
Craggy Range Calvert Vineyard Single Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2006 $49.95
Exotic spices on the nose lead into the most fruit-driven and weighty wine of the three, with polished and smooth dense dark cherry and plum fruit lifted by notes of rose and violet.
From Caro's, Glengarry Herne Bay and Newmarket, La Barrique, Fine Wine Delivery Company.
