The letter Z spells a fitting finale

A model wears the latest range from clothing label Zambesi. Picture / Babiche Martens

From one boatshed to the next, Zambesi launched Fashion Week's final show.

The fashion crowd, including INXS, were wowed last night when they moved from Halsey St HQ to the giant open-to-the-water boatyard at Pier 21, where Zambesi did what it does best: brilliant layered pieces that give a nod to vintage, but always look modern.

Designer Elisabeth Findlay is known for her love of dark colours and there was plenty of that: midnight blue fabric embossed with silver lurex came in cool mini puff skirts and drawstring anoraks, black was used in a faux astrakhan cropped shawl-collared jacket and a stunning smoky blue balloon-sleeved coat was cinched with a cobalt belt.

The mood was lightened with pumpkin-coloured pieces including a dress with a sequin-disc fronted dress and a similar top with a georgette draped front.

Men and women got plenty of velvet. The old-gold velvet tunic with lace insert on the sleeve was another standout piece, as was the return of Zambesi's folded bird-wing sleeve.

The show was a great way to end the Air New Zealand-sponsored week, with the crowd in celebratory mood.

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Before Zambesi, Hong Kong-based designer Yvonne Bennetti also showed sequins, velvet and glamour looks that we don't often see on these shores.

Her after-dark belted sequined coats, dresses, synthetic fur jackets, amethyst velvet trench and white velvet belted swing coat with black contrast buttons were attention-grabbing, but so was the patent quilted Mrs Peel one with fake fur cuff and sexy sequined hotpants. Such look-at-me pieces were toughened with leather belts and gloves.

Bennetti also showed her softer side with a pretty off-the-shoulder black gypsy look dress and white velvet dress with black contrast and an olive belted trench.

Widdess is all about vintage-feel dresses and this showing was no exception with floral print numbers, a couple of lace versions and fluid black sweeties, sometimes toughened with bombers and more tailored skirts.

When Marilyn Sainty retired last year she anointed Beth Ellery and Julia Fong to carry the design mantle for her Scotties stores. For good reason. As one fashion writer commented when the perfectly tailored clean and simple dresses, fine jackets, pants and skirts and the divinely cut navy cut fastened with one large button came past: "Daughter of Marilyn".

Des Rusk is serious about menswear and does a great job turning out gimmick-free uncomplicated slim jeans, easy-wear buttoned-up shirts and tailored suits in a colour palette of mainly grey with hints of red. The most in-your-face red trench imaginable was a hit.

MAW is also partial to a little red. The dove-blue double-breasted coat looked all the better for a red belt and buttons. Designer Madeleine Richards was in a 50s mood with full circle swing skirts and pencil skirts but subverted with leggings.

Young model-turned designer Jaimie Webster turned out some slightly low-crotched, high-waisted satin cocktail trousers and Donna-Karan-feel bodysuit tops. Her boyfriend Nathan Haines was frontrow while she showed clothes with shades of pony club, including high-waisted riding jodhpurs and a low, scoop-backed nude top.