The hard yards pay off

2007 Harvest Man Syrah. Photo / Paul Estcourt

Breaking into the wine scene in New Zealand can be a tricky business. It's an overcrowded field, the punters have never been more price-conscious and getting traction and a loyal following is critical.

It's a bit like theatresports — the players make it up as they go along. It's possibly a lot of fun and a real buzz for those who have to improvise and react with razor-sharp wit and intellect but at the same time walk a precipice between acclaim and glory or falling over.

The wine industry may be steeped in images of romance, Tuscan skies and the smell of lavender from neighbouring fields, but it is, in fact, mostly hard work.

New Waiheke boutique producer The Hay Paddock has an immaculate pedigree. Joint venture partners Bryan Mogridge and Chris Canning are smart, veteran wine marketers and makers and they're off to a dream start, picking up gold and silver medals at one of the world's more prestigious competitions, the London-based International Wine Challenge. They won gold for 2007 Harvest Man Syrah and silver for the 2007 Hay Paddock (a blend of syrah and petit verdot), due for release in 2010.

Another one to keep an eye out for is 2008 Lochiel Estate Chardonnay.

Lochiel is a tiny, family-owned operation in Mangawhai, just north of Auckland, that has made pinot gris, merlot, malbec and syrah. It has seen growth from 320 cases in 2005 to around 1000 cases this year.

Winemaker and viticulturalist Rob Cameron (who's also involved in new label Invivo) creates the wines while Mum and Dad manage the business end.

Former business guru and expatriate American Michael Spratt produces a clutch of classy Bordeaux-style reds under the Destiny Bay label. The 2005 Magna Praemia upholds Waiheke's reputation for price — yours for $275 per bottle — and is cabernet sauvignon dominant with touches of merlot, malbec and cabernet franc. Spratt says it's aimed primarily at the American market. It makes his 2005 Mystae wine, mainly merlot and cabernet sauvignon, seem a snip at $115.

Recommended

2008 Lochiel Estate Chardonnay
Tiny production but worth seeking out. Rich, creamy texture with toasted oak, fruit and nuts. Full-flavoured but with a gentle finish. Perfect winter drinking. Price: $25

2007 Harvest Man Syrah
This is a commercial release of The Hay Paddock for restaurants and fine wine stores. Ripe fruit flavours, spicy nose and perfect peppery finish. Proof that syrah and Waiheke are made for each other. Price: around $37