The Gables, Russell

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

Dining out on holiday is, depending on your nature, a jolly adventure or a mightily expensive disappointment. You never know what you're going to get ... and then you have to pay for it.

So, after suffering the gastronomic purgatory that is Paihia, boarding the ferry to Russell was an exercise in hope. The Gables, a gorgeous old restaurant with a colourful culinary history (it was run, famously, by Act MP Deborah Coddington and her partner, Alister Taylor, in the 80s), twinkles merrily from its prime wharfside position. Hungry and chilled, we gratefully sank into our seats to study the menu, predominantly European dishes featuring seafood, beef and lamb with the occasional Asian flourish.

In a flash, the entrees arrived. My seafood chowder ($15) was superb - a piping hot helping of fish, scallops, baby octopus, mussels, sweet corn and a hint of saffron - and nicely offset by the spicy Alan McCorkindale 2000 Gewurtztraminer ($39). Tim raved over his turkey filo parcels ($14) with their scrumptious creamy bacon sauce. He even ate the Brussels sprouts ringed round the plate, that's how good the sauce was.

Having warned that we had a ferry to catch, the wait for our mains was minimal, allowing barely three swallows of wine. The huge eye fillet of beef ($36), served with a mound of rosemary and orange-infused beetroot topped by an equally large red onion, was too pink to be pretty, but its flavour was first-rate. The beef was barely medium, rather than the medium-well Tim asked for, but was nonetheless tender and delicious. The mass of beetroot, while daunting to look at, was surprisingly tasty.

The better main was my pork fillet ($30) sitting on pumpkin puree with a mushroom/garlic/cream reduction, so generously proportioned I was unable to finish it. The sauce (obviously sauces are a Gables specialty) was a fantastic smoky, gutsy concoction which I happily dunked everything in, including the hearty vegetable side dish, braised leeks and fennel topped with kikorangi blue cheese ($6).

By this stage our appetites were fading, but the food was so good - and such a blessed relief after several days of making do with wimpy fry-ups and sad side salads - we felt compelled to press on.

Tim chose the Kapiti ice cream platter ($12), featuring three varieties of heaven - gingernut, licorice allsorts, and raspberry and mascarpone - topped with a spiky toffee sculpture. Simple but so good.

My creme brulee with fresh coconut ($12) was a welcome diversion from the well-tread brulee path. The coconut lifted the dessert from the ordinary and made it seem more healthful than usual. The grilled brioche served on the side was a nice addition, but one bite was all I could manage.

While meal presentation is not a strong point at The Gables, the flavour more than makes up for the lack of fripperies found at Auckland restaurants. The staff are gracious and do all they can to make the meal just that bit better. Next holiday, I know where to go.

Cost: entrees, mains, vegetables, desserts, and a bottle of wine, $164

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.