The French Cafe

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

Helen Clark can bulldoze the National War Memorial and put up her modern deconstruction. Wayne Brown can call the Starship whatever the heck he likes, so long as the kids are all right. And, while we're at it, let's have a new flag that reflects New Zealand.

However, there are some national institutions that I will defend to the last breath. Well, at least until the after-dinner espresso. And high on that list is the French Cafe.

For the history: how can you fail to respect a restaurant whose kitchens and tables have been home to Barrington Salter, Annie Mantell, Ray McVinnie, Connie Clarkson, Amanda Morris of Rice, not to mention Viva's own food editor, the inimitable Julie Biuso, and those are only the chefs and maitres d' whose names spring to mind without thinking (or its modern equivalent, searching the net).

And for the present: Simon Wright, the chef, and Creghan Molloy Wright, the maitre d' and sommelier, the husband and wife who have owned the Caf' for the past couple of years. And not just maintained, but enhanced its reputation as one of the country's leading restaurants. It is one of Viva's 10 A-list eateries for 2002 (an honour that is not listed on its website, but we're sure that oversight will be rectified any day now).

Perhaps the best reason for visiting the French Cafe often is that you never know what's going to be on the relatively short menu, except that it will fit into the Wrights' mission statement of "contemporary European cuisine in a sophisticated environment", because Simon changes the dishes each month to fit in with seasonal produce, and Creghan alters the wine list to accommodate the changes in his food and in vintages. The environment, one contemporary and one traditional room, is similarly true to label.

There are, however, variations upon themes. You can pretty much count on the chef to have struck up a significant relationship with poultry, beef and lamb in one form or another, and a fish, often snapper.

This time, our entree was a salty, pungent roasted goat's cheese that, freed from its wrapping of parma ham, oozed around the plate and made a gorgeous mess with the fresh figs and red wine syrup. Our waiter, who had been appointed chairman of wine selectors, had come up with two half-glasses; Seresin's gutsy sauvignon blanc softened things up while the mellow Stoneleigh pinot noir came off the bench to see the team home.

"Pink roasted lamb," promised the menu, and it was, with - what a treat - battered artichoke hearts hiding underneath, next to a spicy eggplant relish and chilli jam. "Crispy roast duckling," and they should put "plump" and "utterly delicious" in there too, is usually available, frequently partnered by steamed choy sum and kumara mash, with an orange jus just to remind you of that original classic dish. Personal note to the chef: Mr Wright, you can take everything else on and off the menu, but please don't muck with the duck.

In print, Simon Wright's dishes seem like things you might find on several menus around the city, but he is a master craftsman and his food is precise, clean, each flavour and texture balanced against the others on the plate.

Tarte tatin was, literally, tarted up with fresh figs instead of the traditional apple (Pegasus Bay Finale Noble Chardonnay), and proved a subtle innovation. Warm chocolate mousse with dark, bitter chocolate (Domaine de Beaumalric Muscat de Beaumes de Venise) made a seductive, smooth, luscious coda.

The cab arrived. We left, as always, wanting to go back. Soon.

Open: Dinner Mon-Sat 6.30pm-late; lunch Tues-Fri noon-2.30pm

Owners: Simon Wright, Creghan Molloy Wright

Chef: Simon Wright

Maitre d': Creghan Molloy Wright

Food: "Contemporary European cuisine in a sophisticated environment"

On a menu: Twice baked gruyere cheese souffle with smoked salmon cream, asparagus and olive oil $18/$24

Fresh market fish with langoustine tortellini, pea puree, grated truffle and fennel froth $29

Slowly cooked veal shank with pomme puree, wild mushrooms and shallot confit $29

Passionfruit and champagne jelly with dark chocolate quenelle, orange salad and cocoa tuille $13

Wine: 80 vintages from New Zealand, France, Australia

Vegetarian: Ask your waiter ... better still, let the staff know when you book

Smoking: Non

Noise: Something tinkling faintly in the background

Bottom line: Restaurant to the stars for almost 18 years (and that's only the ones who've been in its kitchens, we're not counting the ones on the other side of the dishes), owner-chef Simon Wright and owner-maitre d' Creghan Molloy Wright continue this national treasure's commitment to the best of food, wine, service and style.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.