The French Cafe, Symonds St

Crispy duck with orange confit - rich French cooking at its best. Picture / Richard Robinson

Herald rating: * * * * *

There are always negatives when a restaurant is reputed to be the best in town. It's hard to get a booking. Diners assume it is way too pricey. And we also have great expectations.

So it was when we finally arrived at the French Cafe in Symonds Street one chilly Thursday evening. It was 6.30, the only time they could fit us in, despite trying for a more civilised 8pm slot, for two weeks.

The French Cafe has its tables for two in the narrow, front part of the restaurant, opposite the bar. A long black leather bench-style seat stretches along one side of the room, faced by tables covered in starched white cloths folded one over the other. The walls are pale, the whole effect classy, seriously cool, and at this time of night, when things are just starting to warm up, possibly intimidating.

Which is where the waitpeople come in. The French Cafe specialises in young friendly staff trained — or possibly just genuinely friendly — to put you at your ease. Ours were lovely. They also won our hearts by giving us a couple of small hot bread rolls each, plus a bottle of olive oil and a dish of butter to nibble on while we decided what to eat.

The menu is short and interesting. The wine list long and truly fascinating with a decent selection of wine by the glass, which, I've decided, is one of the joys of eating out. Once we had to share a wine that didn't necessarily suit both meals; now we all get what we want.

I started with the salad of blue swimmer crab, avocado and tomato, Brian the salt and pepper squid with chilli dipping sauce. His looked and tasted terrific. Mine arrived looking like a one of those bouncy aspic-type salads you see on dodgy buffets.

"This isn't a salad. There are only six sprigs of watercress," I protested. It tasted exquisite. Subtle enough for the crab taste to come into its own (a hard act), not too creamy — and not a hint of gelatine.

The wines to accompany were a challenge but with help from our waiter, who gave me a taste first, I chose a fruity Schlumberger Pinot Gris from Alsace. Brian managed to select his Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot on his own.

The main course menu is basic: duck, pork, lamb, beef, fish, all cooked by some miracle workers out the back. After ensuring it was confit-style, rather than rubbery and raw as is the fashion, I chose the duck, plus a crisper Pallister Estate Pinot Gris to accompany. It arrived looking like an ordinary leg, crispy skin intact. But inside it was already in pieces, having been scooped out, cooked, then reinserted and cooked again. French cooking at its best: rich and delectable.

Brian assured me his square of pork belly was delicious, perfectly cooked from moist inner to the crackling on top, and not too fatty. Our accompanying side of shitake mushrooms and courgettes were, truly, a standout. Maybe it was the mushrooms, maybe the butter and salt. Try them.

After that we could manage only a mango panna cotta to share. It arrived, quivering and creamy, under a large round cookie. And, despite being full to piggy's bow, we spooned it down in record time.

Unbelievably, after an exceptional entree and main course, it was the high point of the meal.

The French Cafe lives up to its reputation. Food, wine, setting and service are all superb. And the prices, while high are not outrageous. Our meal: two entrees, two main courses and one dessert, plus four decent-sized glasses of wine came to a respectable $177.

But remember to book. By 9pm when we left, there were at least three couples waiting for tables.

Where: The French Cafe, 210 Symonds St, Auckland. (09) 3771911
Our meal: $177 for two; entre $18-$25; sides $6.50, main courses $34 each; desserts $15-$30 (for two)
Our wines: by the glass $6-$11, by the bottle $35-$360