KEY POINTS:
Herald rating: 5 out of 5
There are two reasons to go to The French Cafe. Reason 1, you haven't been there before. Reason 2, you have been there before. For Gina, it is Reason 1. For me, it is Reason 2.
The relentless symmetry of this logic was not enough for The Lady Editor, especially following my visit to Antoine's last week. She muttered something most unlady editor-like about wanting to drop the Viva Visa to see how far it could bounce.
"It's purely professional and in the best interests of my ... I mean, our readers," I protested.
"We can compare and contrast two of the best restaurants in the city if we should go this week. Besides, The French Cafe has just re-opened after renovations and we owe it to the readers to tell them what's been done." Eventually she capitulated to the relentless symmetry of my logic. And abject pleading.
The class act starts when you call to book. At most Auckland restaurants, you leave a message with some disembodied voice then pray that someone remembers to clear the messages.
Here, you ask hopefully if they could find a table for you sometime in the next decade, possibly next week? They might have a space on Tuesday or Thursday, comes the reply. "Tuesday?" you punt, "about 7.30?"
"No," gently but firmly, "because we only seat four tables per half-hour. It helps with service and the workflow in the kitchen. You can have a table at 6.30 or 8.30. On Thursday, it'll be 6 or 9."
On Tuesday, you're called to confirm attendance. They're not kidding. There is a waiting list and if your plans have changed, someone else's are about to be.
The French inquisition negotiated, Gina and I arrive to inspect the makeover. Simon and Creghan Wright, the owners, have acquired the takeaway bars on either side of their site. I particularly like the notion that they've re-invented the best restaurant in Auckland (darn, gave that away. Well, it was no secret, anyway) by absorbing a couple of greasy-spoon joints.
The bar moves to front of house, giving more space in the once-narrow side dining-room; there's a new reception and coffee area. The courtyard has been tidied, replanted. The main dining-room is subtly modernised and lightened. All is quiet, calm, focused, style.
From the moment you decide if you will or won't keep your coat, you have a black-suited, personal caregiver for the night.
Then there is the food. The Wright stuff.
Chiswick-born, European-trained, the Lewisham Award-holder as Auckland's outstanding chef describes it as contemporary European, so let's just remind that this 30-year-old restaurant is neither French nor a café. He fiddles with his menu monthly, for seasonal ingredients.
After green pea cappuccino - thin soup, really - stiffened with goat's cheese foam, dusted in porcini powder, Gina began with a classic.
There are 1001 ways to do roasted goats' cheese: chef is presenting it in a caramelised onion, fig and beetroot tart, set off with red wine syrup.
She followed with his current flight with roast duck. Due East. The menu mentions sweet spices, stir-fried Asian greens, mandarin puree, kumara mash and orange jus. Gina guessed the flavouring then tested the waiter: "How is this cooked?"
"Certainly, madam. It's rolled in allspice then roasted at 180 degrees for ... " No need to ask the chef. Score one for the staff training programme.
I tested the quail dish against Antoine's. Wright puts five mouthfuls on one platter: foie gras atop Earl Grey jelly; with mushroom tortellini; tempura, with nori; plain roasted breast; soft fried egg. It's an adventure. Score one for the champion chef.
Cut thick from the rack, lamb was seared dark on the outside, pink and juicy in. On a Med cruise, a zucchini flower oozed cheese, slow-roasted eggplant and tomato concentrated the flavours, artichoke, dash of pistou.
Gina summed up the food: "It's superbly cooked, but that's only the beginning of it. You can taste every single flavour on the plate. And the combination of textures are perfectly balanced." Couldn't put it better.
Only way to finish was the tasting plate of six desserts, including a crème brulee with sauternes and poached apricots, a deep and dark chocolate souffle, and our favourite, nougat cannelloni stuffed with passionfruit curd, frilled with berries.
Wearing her sommelier's cap, Creghan Wright oversees the impressive cellar of world wines. We were offered two choices with most dishes, going with an Alsatian 04 Bott Geyl pinot gris (cheese tart), 05 Te Mata Awatea cab-merlot (duck), 05 Clos Henri pinot noir - from Marlborough, despite the name (quail) and a rocking burgundy 02 Domaine Denis Bachelet (lamb).
"It felt," said Gina, "as if it was all about me." The French Cafe's success, she continued - over and above the exciting food - flows from the effort and expertise that goes into providing a pleasurable and memorable evening for each diner. A remarkable feeling to take away from an Auckland restaurant.
Now I shall hand this in to The Lady Editor and hope she understands why I'm going over my monthly budget of stars.
Address: 210 Symonds St
Phone: (09) 377 1911
Open: Dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Fri
Cuisine: Contemporary European
From the menu: Roasted crayfish tail, avocado mango chilli salsa, citrus butter, lime aioli, baby cress $25; Pot au feu of organic chicken and crayfish, summer vegetables, chicken bouillion, black truffle mayonnaise $42; White chocolate mousse, marinated strawberries, watermelon and rose water granita, strawberry jus $16
Vegetarian: On every menu
Wine: Sublime, sophisticated
