The case for city wine

Babich Winemakers' Reserve Hawkes Bay Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2007. Photo / Babiche Martens

When tv's "Urban Chef" Oliver Rowe set himself the formidable task of sourcing everything for his London restaurant locally, it was the wine list that posed one of the major hurdles. While convenience once meant vineyards were more frequently to be seen within city limits, greater attention to site selection combined with soaring real estate has meant most have moved to the country.

Bucking this trend however, was the establishment last month of the Forty Hall Vineyard in the London Borough of Enfield. It's the city's first commercial vineyard since medieval times.

While vines are yet to be seen snaking their way up Queen St, this is part of an international movement that's been fuelling the growth in enterprises such as urban farms. We're slowly seeing more wine being made in the modern city, by those attracted to its environmental aspects - such as energy saving or the greening of urban landscapes - to those tapping into its tourism opportunities.

Here in New Zealand we've very few urban vineyards. One is Cracroft Chase, situated at the end of a cul-de-sac in Christchurch's Port Hills by an Italian couple who simply fell in love with the spot. Another recently planted Christchurch vineyard, Skydale, just a stone's throw from the airport and among a residential development, has plans for a restaurant to harness the potential of the market that's literally on their doorstep.

Our other cities are proving less fruitful, with the climes and compact geography of Wellington likely holding back developments there, while land costs are possibly more pertinent in Auckland. One of the urban wineries Auckland does boast, Babich, has unwittingly achieved this status after being enveloped by urban sprawl.

"When my father Josip Babich moved onto the Henderson property in 1919 it was totally scrub covered with ti tree, gorse etc," explains Joe Babich. "The suburban encroachment was evident as long ago as 1970 but land subdivision has really accelerated over the last 15 years or so. Today the 28 hectare Henderson estate is surrounded by housing."

It was the threat of urban encroachment, that Joe says drove the company to source grapes from other regions.

It could also be argued, that as New Zealand discovered the best sites for growing its different grapes, those around Auckland were often discovered to be less than ideal. And just as the thought of partaking of pig smoked in the fumes of central London doesn't appeal, when it comes to fine wines at least, give me one from a region that's well suited to grape growing, than a mouldy Vin de Ponsonby any day.

City limits

Like Oliver Row, I'm hard pressed to find true urban wines to recommend this week, having reviewed Cracroft Chase's attractive pinot gris some months back (Accent on Wine, $24.95). However, here are some stunners with city connections.

Great spot for syrah

Babich Winemakers' Reserve Hawkes Bay Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2007 $24.95
Babich now make wines from regions across the country, with Hawkes Bay particularly well suited to syrah. This is a prime one, with smooth, ripe and rich dark berry fruit overlaid with cedary spice.
(From fine wine outlets or online at www.babichwines.co.nz)

Close to Christchurch

Sandihurst Waipara Riesling 2008 $22.50
Sandihurst is a winery based in West Melton, a Canterbury sub-region that's a mere 20 minutes from central Christchurch. Sourcing fruit from across the South Island, this fragrant low-alcohol riesling is from its Waipara vineyard, brimming with succulent stone fruit and mandarin, combined with blossom, spice and mineral over a fresh lemony core.
(From www.sandihurstwines.co.nz, www.truewines.co.nz)

Town terroir

Martinborough Vineyard Te Tera Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008
While nowhere near city-sized, Martinborough is a town whose vineyards are nevertheless stumbling distance from its centre. This is Martinborough Vineyard's consistently impressive second label pinot, light and bright with ripe and tangy plum and berry fruit, spicy mocha oak and a subtle savoury undercurrent.
(From Glengarry, Fine Wine Delivery Company, Caro's, La Barrique, Liquor King, Scenic Cellars).