KEY POINTS:
Wine is art. It's culture. It's the essence of civilisation and the art of living," mused Californian wine mogul and art aficionado, the late Robert Mondavi in his autobiography.
The fusion of the creative with the sensual in wine has led to many links between the liquid and the world of art, which have flowed together once again in an exhibition currently running at The New Zealand Portrait Gallery in Wellington.
Curated by Cuisine wine critic John Saker, Looking Down the Barrel is a show documenting "The Face of New Zealand Wine" through portraits of the industry's luminaries as well as some if its unsung heroes.
Interspersed with Saker's informed and engaging commentary, these range from a sepia-toned shot of Romeo Bragato, one of the founding fathers of the New Zealand wine industry, to modern pioneers such as Larry McKenna, who stares out from a rubicund rendering by Tina Rae-Carter, with a backdrop conjuring up his current Martinborough base though its colouring suggests somewhere far more arid and akin to his Australian roots.
Photographs account for a fair percentage of the exhibition. One of the most evocative images is an early black and white photo of the second generation of Corban children, from the now famous winemaking family, peering out from under the vines.
New Zealand is blessed with serious photographers who have turned their lens to the grape and its makers. Marti Friedlander is one featured in Looking Down the Barrel. Her powerful black and white shots of the personalities behind the labels first appeared in Dick Scott's Wine Review and then in the reissue of his Pioneers of New Zealand Wine.
Photographer-cum-Cloudy Bay chief winemaker Kevin Judd also has a number of his powerful photographs in the show. The lush colour shots really convey the vibrant personalities who have propelled the industry. The exhibition coincides with the launch of a new book of Judd's photography, which in contrast turns from the people to their land in The Landscape of New Zealand Wine.
New Zealand's modern wine fraternity may have a history of venturing into terra incognita through the establishments of vineyards in viticulturally uncharted territory, but most of the artists contributing to this exhibition have trodden a more traditional path when it comes to the representation of their subjects. This is no doubt due to the contemporary portraits of those featured or their companies being commissioned and funded.
There are some portraits in a more experimental vein, such as Two Heads, painted in bold black brushstrokes by Toss Woollaston, of his son and daughter-in-law Philip and Chan Woollaston, now of Nelson's Woollaston wine estate.
Bishop Pompallier, who helped establish some of the country's early vineyards in Northland, makes a more expressionistic appearance as he blesses the vines in a painting by Piera McArthur, while writer and wine historian Dick Scott holds a drinking vessel while being showered by tiny naked body parts in a surrealistic painting by Mary McIntyre.
Though winemakers tend to be the stars of the industry and are the most represented here, Saker was keen that lesser known figures be featured, such as Denis Kasza, a viticulturalist who played an important but often overlooked role in the development of Hawkes Bay's early Bordeaux blends.
Down the Barrel is a fascinating snapshot of the characters and culture of our wine industry. Running until November 12 at The New Zealand Portrait Gallery, the exhibition will then be taken on tour, starting in Marlborough in late January before it hopes to go international.
LIQUID ART
A-VIN GARD
Dada 1 $50
Taking its name from the art movement whose "freedom of expression, surprise and the unexpected" the wine's makers relate to their product, this is an intriguing first release of a mystery blend of white grapes by two unnamed winemakers. Intense, with spice, lifted apricots and viscosity suggesting viognier is in there, balanced by a razorlike acidity and slaty finish reminiscent of riesling.
From Caros, Maison Vauron.
GET FRANC
Crossroads Hawkes Bay Cabernet Franc 2007 $19.99
Cabernet franc usually plays a bit part in Bordeaux blends, but in this wine it takes centre stage and pulls off a winning performance with its plush ripe blackberry fruit, cedary spice and rich earthy undertones.
From Scenic Cellars, Kohi Corner Bottle Shop, New World Cambridge.
EXPERT TOUCH
Maven Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $19.95
The shelves may be filling up with 2008 sauvignons, but this richly textured and ripe 2007 is drinking wonderfully, with its palate of tropical fruit, lime and flinty spice from a portion fermented in barrel.
From New World, Liquor King.
