KEY POINTS:
a is for the Australian infiltration
In a radical move by the organisers, Sydney-based designer Kirrily Johnston will be the first Australian designer to show at Air New Zealand Fashion Week. Her highly anticipated show will be the second of the week, on Tuesday morning. (See Zoe Walker's interview with Johnston on page 10.) Is this the start of international designers coming to Auckland to show? The Australian market, of course, is extremely important for our designers - thanks to its size. And buyers from across the ditch are courted with VIP status. So why not return the love, if not the numbers? Then, of course, there's the Australian media which will be here in force with Damien Woolnough of Australian Vogue's website coming over, as well as representatives from Yen, Russh and The Australian.
b is for bag
A statement bag to be precise. This is the essential accessory that shows you have your finger on the pulse of what's hot. Logo lovers will adore this Fendi Chef Tote, $1925, bedecked with the famous monogram, so people know you're carrying the genuine thing! For those whose budget doesn't quite stretch that far, go to www.armcandy.co.nz and hire a designer bag for the week from just $75. No one will ever know!
c is for courting controversy
There was an abundance of controversy at last year's fashion week - Aja Rock threw wine over Bridget Saunders, there were spats between bloggers over credibility, and a designer was accused of plagiarism. Here's hoping that something controversial will happen this year. We're looking to designer Lucie Boshier, who has been known to court a bit of controversy in the past with her promotional posters that featured a caricature of a young model being sodomised by a Karl Lagerfeld lookalike. Her show invitations turned up with a dirty napkin, a pearl necklace and a cigar - so can we expect anything provocative at her show? "I don't know if controversial is the right word - unless smoking and drinking gin with a voluptuous drag queen is a no-no on the catwalk. We have girls dancing in massive and beautiful champagne glasses in lace catsuits and our curvaceous models are, er, high on life shall we say?", says the designer. And then there's the rumour that the young designer Michelle Yvette will be sending models in burqas down the runway. If she's expecting any response, she may be sorely disappointed. Hussein Chalayan did it back in 1998 with models wearing nothing underneath.
d is for the designer collection shows
Which are selling out like hot cakes. So much so, they have put on an extra show during the Air New Zealand Fashion Weekend. This is an amazing opportunity where you get to see every designer show two pieces from their spring/summer ranges - so that's what's in store right now - and one piece from their autumn/winter 2009 collection. If you miss out on tickets, then go to www.airnzfashionweek.co.nz and go in the draw for tickets to "Get On Air NZ's Fashion Week's A-List", a surprise last minute show featuring Karen Walker, Huffer, Zambesi and Hailwood. Entries close Sep 12.
e is for exhibition hall
The exhibition hall can sometimes act as a thoroughfare to the shows, but the designers showing this year can still expect to get exposure to some of the industry's key players. Those showing their wares include knitwear label Liberty, The Carrybag Company, Tav, Barbara Lee and Kagi. Spanish label Skunk Funk will also be launching into New Zealand with a stall at ANZFW.
f is for freebies
The freebies that you get in your goodie bag provide much excitement amongst the uninitiated. But last year, there was an overwhelming sense that it was too much, and often just too much rubbish. Yes, the designers have to keep their sponsors happy, but surely - as with your wardrobe - a well-edited version is much more effective. The rumour is that this year the designers are cutting back on the goodie bag phenomenon. Whether it's because of the economic climate or because it's now hip to be more enviromentally friendly, who knows. When you do find a goodie bag on your seat; grabbing and sifting through it immediately to see what you have is a no-no. You should act as if you don't really care because, darlings, you do this all the time.
g is for green queen
Industry stalwart Laurie Foon returns to Fashion Week with a recharged passion for all things green and sustainable. The Wellington-based designer, who has been in the industry for more than 20 years, will present a collection called Heirloom on Tuesday afternoon - inspired by pieces to be treasured and passed on. Foon's Starfish store has had a green makeover and stocks the best of sustainable fashion including the world's first fair-trade sneaker, organic cotton T-shirts from Kowtow and shoes from ecologically friendly Terra Plana.
h is for herald online
The way to keep your finger on the pulse of what's happening as it's happening is at www.nzherald.co.nz. Here you'll find blogs and reports by our expert fashion editors and stylists. We'll take you behind the scenes, and show you latest looks straight from the runway. Check out 'You've been snapped' paparazzi shots by the team at Simply You.
i is for invites
These are what should be clogging up your mailbox if you're a key player. Receiving a personal invitation from a designer means you're wanted: because you are a) a buyer, b) a big-spending customer, c) media or d) a celebrity of some shape or size. It means you're useful. If you don't get an invite you can always wangle your way in to help fill up the seats in no-man's land at the back.
j is for jaeha
Alex Jaeha Kim took the Air New Zealand Fashion Week catwalk by storm last year, with an explosive show that many in the industry called the best of the week - but can the precocious young designer do it again? The pressure is on for the 22-year-old, but he's not letting it get to him. "It's positive and just makes me work harder. Pressure is good, it pushes me and it generates a lot of hype, which is what I want!" An enthusiastic Kim, who only graduated from fashion school in 2006, will present his new collection called `Call Me Princess, My Daddy Says So' early next Wednesday morning at St Matthews in the City. And while he won't give a lot away he will tell us that the range clashes "naivete with the grown-up" and was inspired by a childhood film. He uses three words to describe the look of the models, who will all have a uniform look of white Rapunzel-esque hair. "Think of albino Russian princesses. It's about fantasy. But that's all I can say!" Wednesday's show will also see the launch of menswear and unisex pieces, which is happy news for fashionable New Zealand men.
The highly anticipated collection will be styled once again by Kim's good friend and Pulp's fashion editor Dan Ahwa, who last year dressed Kim's models in PVC platforms, stocking caps and a stand-out Edward Scissorhand inspired "scissor glove". Kim says to expect similar styling props this year, with big ribbons, deconstructed Doc Martens and lots of "big bold things". We can't wait!
k is for killer heels
What you're wearing is all-important, but if you don't have a pair of gorgeous shoes it will kill any outfit and lose you important brownie points in the fashion stakes. If you want to be taken seriously - you have to have a heel. The higher the better. It works to give you height, lengthen the leg, confidence and serious attitude. The fact that by the end of the day your feet will be killing you is beside the point.
Killer heels will be ubiquitous on the runway too - footwear designer Kathryn Wilson's designs will feature in shows for Hailwood, Juliette Hogan, Twenty-Seven Names and Huffer.
l is for Lucy
Vincent-Marr
One of the most sought-after hairdressers working at Fashion Week, Lucy Vincent-Marr and her team from the Stephen Marr salons are putting together the hair looks for an incredible 10 shows next week, including Lonely Hearts, Cybele, Deadly Ponies and Nom*D. It goes without saying that she's expecting a busy week.
m is for menswear
Let's hear it for the boys? Menswear may seem a little light on the schedule this year, but there will still be a small offering for New Zealand men. Designers from Huffer to World and Stolen Girlfriends Club will feature menswear in their shows, and we've been told that the Hailwood show will include more menswear than ever before, including wool jackets, wool and leather sweaters and T-shirts with rivet detailing. "Each season I do a little more with the menswear as I have a couple of stockists who buy it. And I get to make stuff for me!" says designer Adrian Hailwood.
Next week will also see the launch of menswear from Jaeha. "It was a natural thing," says designer Kim. "I'm a guy and I was wearing things from my collection anyway."
n is for no-shows
There was disappointment all around when Kate Sylvester's name wasn't announced as part of the line-up this year. The designer told us she's choosing to focus instead on her export markets. Her show will be sorely missed by all. Although, she won't be totally absent from the event: those are her designs featured in the Air New Zealand Fashion Week campaign.
Also missing from the ANZFW schedule this year? Tanya Carlson won't be showing, nor will her design assistant's brand, Cherry Cotton Candy. Streetwear label Federation are also absent this year, as are Helen Cherry, Workshop, Jimmy D, State of Grace, Miss Crabb, Kingan Jones, Beth Ellery, Little Brother and Mala Brajkovic, who is having `time out' to focus on being a mum.
o is for off-site shows
Generally, it is only established designers, like Zambesi, Kate Sylvester and Huffer who are able to take their shows off-site because of the extra time and money required. But this year sees the addition of some up-and-coming labels joining the off-site brigade. Salasai will show at the gritty Vector Arena carpark, Stolen Girlfriends Club are going grunge in a big warehouse off the beaten track, and Jaeha will hold a morning show at St Matthews in the City. Alex Kim says he decided to do it because, "it's sort of a statement that I can do it, as a young designer". So why do designers choose to take their shows off-site?
"Going off-site enables us to draw the event out, creating more of an experience," says Huffer's Steve Dunstan. Huffer, who had a fantastic show last year at the Porsche garage, will this year show at the Hilton - close to the ocean, which supports their fishing and sea theme.
As for the Stolen Girlfriends Club team, co-designer Marc Moore says they too went off-site to reinforce their theme. "We wanted to go derelict for this collection and just found the tents were way too flash."
p is for the paparazzi
Loved and loathed with equal passion, paparazzi photographers are everywhere at Air New Zealand Fashion Week. Over the past few years there has been an explosion of party photographers, from those working for the Sunday social pages to the new breed of online snappers.
Before a major show they stalk the front row for prey, er, we mean well-dressed subjects to shoot. Tips for getting your mug in the social pages? Make sure you're in the front row, wear bright colours, smile lots and, preferably, be a semi-celebrity.
q is for quantity
Let's make that the large quantities of Moet & Chandon Champagne which will be drunk over the week. As the official "Champagne of the Collections" they've ordered in 2500 bottles and expect around 15,000 glasses will be poured. There will also be an exclusive Moet & Chandon Lounge, created by interior designer Anya Vitali to reflect the brand's gold and black colours, where designers, stylists, buyers, journalists, photographers et al will be able to sup to their heart's content.
r is for Roshumba Williams
American model Roshumba Williams will be the international star of the runway this year. She's appeared in Sports Illustrated, Vogue, and Woody Allen's film Celebrity. She's even written a book, The Complete Idiot's Guide to Being a Model.
s is for stylish sunglasses
For an instant air of mystique and glamour, you can't go past a pair of stylish sunnies. Whether it's cool or obnoxious to wear them in the front row is a continued cause for debate.
t is for tension
The models may look calm as they make their way down the runway, but backstage is a completely different world. Most shows will require a model to make three or four quick outfit changes, with the help of a dresser who will frantically zip, tie laces and make sure tags are out of sight. Models yank on clothes, show producers scream and stylists panic. Needless to say, tension is high.
u is for unwinding
It's important to look fabulous at all times, even if your shoes hurt and your makeup's run after hours of sitting under the hot lights of the runway. So sneaking away for a little pampering or a makeup touch-up is considered de rigueur. On site, there is the M.A.C and ghd buyers' lounge, offering respite from the crowds. There's the exclusive Ink Room, where guests can have their hair and makeup done, or perhaps get a massage from the Bliss people. Anyone with any nous, however, will book into the Senses Spa at The Westin. This sanctuary is a mere 100 steps from the Fashion Week site, but it feels like a million miles. Highly recommended: Beyond Senses. Forget synchronised swimming, this is synchronised massage. Two masseuses, 100 minutes of bliss.
v is for VIPs
Air New Zealand Fashion Week isn't exactly known for its flamboyance - the front row is more often than not a sea of black or denim - so thank God for Bryan Boy. The fashion blogger, who has had a Marc Jacobs handbag named after him, will bring his signature brand of over-the-top love of fashion to the ANZFW front-row this year. The Manila-based blogger originally started his blog as a travel journal, but it quickly became, as Style.com calls it, a "cult read in fashion circles". We think Bryan describes himself best: "I'm so gay I sweat glitter!" Bryan will be seated alongside LA-based freelance fashion writer Karen Lofty. And in between shows, expect the international VIPs to be luxuriating in the Air NZ lounge, which could possibly be the hardest room to get into in the whole of New Zealand. Last year we managed to sneak past the door and have a glass of wine on the deck overlooking the harbour - bliss. Also on the VIP list this year? Antonia Kidman, who will flying over from Australia to represent beauty brand Living Nature.
w is for the Westin
The official hotel for Fashion Week, this is where the you'll find all the delegates, buyers and international visitors staying. Would-bes if they could-bes can lurk around the lobby in an attempt to rub shoulders with the VIPs or can hang out in the bar and drink one of the tasty cocktails created by Chris Rinaudo. Look out for where you place your bum. Throughout the hotel there are a range of cushions, each individually created by designers such as Trelise Cooper, Cybele and Zambesi, which will be auctioned off at the end of the week.
x is Air NZ Export Awards
The winners of these awards will be announced on the opening night of Fashion Week and they're a big deal for the lucky designers, who will receive a significant travel prize to help them grow their export business. Past winners have included Kate Sylvester and Adrian Hailwood.
y is for young and enthusiastic
The AUT Rookie show is missing from the schedule this year, and will be missed by those looking for the next big thing (graduates include Alex Jaeha Kim and Camille Howie, now stocked in Scotties stores). But fashion students around the country still have the chance to be part of New Zealand fashion's biggest event, working hard behind the scenes as ushers, runners and dressers. Their week will be an intense one, so enthusiasm is a must. And for those AUT design students who were looking forward to putting their collections on the runway - our sources tell us that the AUT fashion school will be putting on its own show later in the year.
z is for Zambesi
Always one of the hottest tickets of the week, industry icons Zambesi never fail to deliver with a standout show. This year's show will be held at the old council depot site on Wellesley Street.
