The A-Z of winter fashion

Earthy colours and manor charm are two strong winter trends.

Accessories

Chunky knit scarves, brown plaited belts, leather riding gloves, garishly large brooches, tweedish trilby hats, curiously outsized satchels ... ahhhh, we could go on for hours. If there's one thing cooler weather guarantees, it's an abundance of fashion's delightfully minor details - not to mention the sheer joy of trolling through yet another retail ghetto in search of a "cheap little something" that might just make all the difference to that "big expensive something" lying dormant in your closet.

Boots

Just a few years ago a single pair of boots would be enough to take you through winter, a feat that now seems unimaginable. Flat or heeled, pointed or round, the sheer variety of boots available means you can be forgiven for having at least four pairs in your wardrobe. Tan and vintage brown leathers are a distinct favourite, especially when wearing a riding or cowboy boot. Look out for the return of the round-toe, heeled boot.

Chunky Knits

Cosy and oversized, this trend was first propelled into the limelight by Chloe's Phoebe Philo. Cable and fisherman knits abound in a handcrafted look reminiscent of your grandmother's old knitting patterns. Updated to new proportions, cardigans take centre stage this season. Worn down to the knee and self-belted, pair them with narrow pants, or wear one in lieu of a coat, over a silk dress, for a refreshing juxtaposition.

Dark denim

Finally, distressed denim is taking a backseat. Darkest blue indigo and flat black are back this winter, providing a clean backdrop for some of this season's more adventurous fabrics. Jeans are best worn skinny, tapered to tuck into boots or to sit easily on heels or flats. Denim skirts are still short, but without the much-overdone rips and washed patches, providing a more elegant alternative, worn with stockings, boots and a chunky knit.

Earthy colours

Warm hues provide the perfect palette for paler winter complexions. Browns, creams, dusky pinks and reds inspire prints and knits, colours that follow through into footwear and accessories. When buying pieces that sit close to the face, opt for something other than black, as it will look harsh and monochromatic.

Faux fur

While real fur might make you skittish, faux can provide the same elegance without pricking your conscience, or earning the wrath of protesters. Make sure you choose carefully - there is good fake and bad fake. And there's a fine line between looking tasteful and trashy. To avoid the latter, stick with natural-looking colours and soft "furs". Remember while it may be fake, you want it to look like it's not.

Green

The standout colour of autumn remains for winter, so be sure to have a splash of green in your wardrobe. While there are varying shades to choose from, there is an obvious lean towards blue greens - lime green is definitely off the colour wheel. Instead, opt for warmer jewel-like shades - aquas, turquoises and emeralds.

Hats

Not only are they fashion statements, but as most body heat can be lost through our heads, hats are great for keeping warm. In keeping with winter's penchant for wool, hand-knitted cable hats hit high fashion, available with matching scarves from Karen Walker. And perhaps one of the most definitive statements of the season is the return of the Trilby hat - worn slightly tipped forward, in tweed or plaid, providing a feminine take on what was once a man's-only domain.

Indian influences

Bringing an eclectic and colourful mix to the season, ethnic-inspired clothes have found their way on to our hangers. World influences provide luxe detailing with beading, embroidery and sequins - think Indian, Moroccan and African. Avoid dressing head to toe in ethnic wares - mix an African-inspired printed Kaftan with denim or team a lightly beaded jersey dress with some slouchy tan boots.

Jewellery

While diamonds will always be a girl's best friend, the must-have jewels of winter are not so precious. Worn as big as you can find them, wooden beads hang loosely and long. Native and crafty, chunky wooden charms and raffia curios are also hot. Keep colours natural, opting for timber-toned pieces rather than bright and over-bearing enamels.

Kaftans

In a throwback to the 70s, printed cotton kaftans make a comeback. Before you begin rummaging through your boxes for the over-sized muslin number you wore with sandals at the kibbutz, take note of this season's updated proportions. The new kaftan is far more streamlined, and, dare we say, sexy. While the words sexy and kaftan may seems an unlikely combination, worn belted with a pair of narrow jeans and heels, they'll surprise you. For the best kaftans in town visit Freemans Bay boutique Superette.

Lingerie

If there's one lasting truism of fashion, it's that you won't feel sexier than knowing you've got a beautiful set of matching underwear beneath your clothes. Admittedly, not everyone will know if you're wearing French lace or your comfy nana's knickers a la Bridget Jones, but there's something reassuring about knowing that under layers of winter wear there lies something delicate and ever so sexy.

Manor charm

Horse riding, duck hunting, sipping port around the open fire - this winter welcomes old English country-manor charm. Screaming of breeding and heritage, houndstooth, plaids, checks and tweeds reign. Mixed with vintagewear and accessories for the Soho girl's mini-break, live-in manor girls will enchant in a full regalia of pleated skirts, knitted vests and big-buttoned jackets, throwing on a belted coat, scarf, and trilby hat when they are off for a jaunt in the woods.

Narrow pants

Revived as a tribute to the hazy days of rock'n'roll, narrow pants have grown up, become more elegant, and remain the favoured silhouette. An essential in every wardrobe, a great pair of slim pants will go with almost every look of this season, especially suiting chunky knits and flowing robes - if you're wearing oversized on top, keep the bottom half more fitted.

Open-toed shoes

Even though it's winter, we suggest popping your feet into a pair of of this season's gorgeous 50s-inspired shoes. Open-toed they may be, but mix them with patterned hosiery and a knee-length skirt for an ultimate take on girlish glamour. Or treat yourself to a mid-winter pedicure, brave the cold for a night and show off your newly groomed feet.

Prints

More subdued this winter. Thankfully those garish body-hugging animal prints have given way to subtlety and gentle colour, with iconic labels such as Dior whacking their fingerprint across their clothes. But how do you wear them? Steer clear of all-over prints and don't be afraid of mixing fabric textures to highlight that boho flavour in some of the more robust prints being sent our way.

Quality

Summer fashions manage a certain carefree fragility that puts most garments - whether high-end or not - on an almost equal playing field. Yet most cooler-weather fabrics demand a higher level of attention to detail in both raw textile and workmanship, which shows through all too quickly in your wardrobe. The moral of the story? You may be able to fake it in summer, but when it comes to winter-wear, only the best will do. Look for quality weaves in wools, cashmeres and the like, paying attention to cut and build and you'll be wishing spring never comes.

Rock'n'roll sensibility

A range of clothing created from organic materials was launched this year by Ali Hewson and husband Paul (aka Bono). The clothes are made in family-run factories in South America and Africa. Yes, the celebrity pull for Edun (nude spelt backwards) is enormous, but we like to think it's a step in the right direction for the fashion industry. While the New York-based label is not yet available here, take a step ahead and educate yourself about brands - find out where and under what conditions are they made - and shop with a conscience. What you do, and don't, choose spend your money on, is a simple way to strengthen the rights of those who can't choose their work conditions. You never know, you might start a revolution.

Sienna Miller

That a name might make the list of a season's fashion guide is testament to how this British actress has influenced global trends. Named by Vogue as the most important current fashion icon, Miller and her Soho Boho style have taken the world by storm. Think vintage, ethnic fashion, cowboy boots, beading and old-manor charm all mixed into one. While anything this girl wears seems to turn to gold, be careful not to overdo it - despite the apparent ease of just throwing things together, this is a carefully styled look.

Trench coats

Short, long, belted or loose trench coats. In 1901 Thomas Burberry submitted a new coat design to the British War Office. By World War II the trench coat (named for the soldiers fighting in the trenches) was an essential piece of outerwear for international forces. Humphrey Bogart's character in Casablanca and the Mafia certainly made the trench cutting-edge fashion, and today you'll find it shaped for a feminine silhouette, while retaining its masculine appeal.

Ugg boots

While it might be best to leave these behind as a fashion statement, there's nothing better than warm and comfortable feet when you get home after a long day. And given that last year they became part of the fashionista's vernacular, there's a large (and dare we say fashionable) range available, which means we no longer have to languish in our pink fluffy slippers when we're lounging by the fire.

Vintage

Good vintage clothing is like good red wine: they both get better with age and fetch exorbitant prices. Overseas a 1920s Dior couture dress will set you back $60,000. However, thankfully you can also find some beautifully crafted pieces at a much lower price. The key to vintage buying is to hunt around and learn to distinguish between quality clothing and second-hand throwouts. Look for well-made, well-kept, styles that, while not hot off the press, haven't gone past their use-by date.

Wrap dresses

Whether it's flowing silk or a fitted wool robe, wrap dresses are comfortable and easily suit day and night. Alluring in either style, wool jersey knits offer shape and suit a slimmer silhouette, while oversized kimono-style wraps can hide a multitude of sins. Our favourites are Miss Crabb's Jacket Dress, and Helen Cherry's Jersey Wrap in emerald green.

Xanadu

Olivia Newton-John may have been a dab hand at song-writing, but our current passion for that good ole 70s thing owes more to the distinct silhouette and colour combinations of that era and not so much to Newton-John's cheesy roller-disco film soundtrack. Think slightly subtler outlines with a hint of girlishness to them, making sure you embrace the bold colour and texture combinations that keep drawing us back to this era and its gorgeous wrap dresses, ever-evolving versions of the kaftan, and the ever-present brown boots.

You

While it may sound cliched, the most important thing about any season is that you wear what suits you. Learn what styles, colours and silhouettes suit you. If you're unsure don't feel bad about trying on lots of clothes - a good shop assistant should be honest and help you find alternatives that work for you. Don't be afraid to try new looks - something you write off in your mind might actually look great on. Make current trends work for you - if you are bottom-heavy and still want to wear narrow pants, use long chunky cardigans and silk robes to your advantage.

Zambesi ...

... Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper, World, Workshop, Helen Cherry, Kate Sylvester, Hailwood, Miss Crabb - the list of New Zealand fashion designers grows stronger every season. All the pieces we saw and loved at last year's Air New Zealand Fashion Week are finally in store, so there's surely no better way to dress this winter than in our own designers' wares. 


* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.