KEY POINTS:
Why do some designers come right down the runway at the end of their show and others never come out at all?
It really depends on the personality of each designer. Some nasty gossips even say it depends on his or her ego. Some love the roar of
the crowd and the moment of glory,
others are a lot shyer about it. They may just pop their heads out from backstage, or if you're lucky, come halfway down the runway. If you're really unlucky, they may do as Paris-based designer Martin Margiela does, or rather doesn't. He's known as the most mysterious man in fashion because he never has his photo taken and has never been seen on his own runway after a show.
What exactly is "paparazzi bait"?
This phrase refers to the celebrity sitting in the front row. It is something that's big at overseas fashion shows and it is becoming more and more prevalent in New Zealand, especially now that our social pages are such popular reading.
Local designers will often "dress"well-known New Zealanders - that means, they may give the celebrity clothes, they may give the celebrity a healthy discount or they may lend the celebrity clothes. It's clever marketing - if said groovy musician or TV presenter is seen wearing the label, then the designer is groovy by association. And when they hold a show, the groovy musician or presenter pays the designer back by sitting in the front row, wearing the designer's clothes, and posing for photos.
The point of paparazzi bait is publicity: it all gives the designer yet another chance to get their clothes into local media.
Why are the models so ridiculously skinny? Do they actually eat dinner backstage?
Without being too horrible about it, the models are basically hard-working clothes hangers. They are needed to make the garments look fantastic. Models are chosen for the shows based on the way they look, and whether they suit the image the designer is trying to project.
And as for what they eat backstage, very often it's the usual style of junk food that teenagers devour: chips, lollies, Coca-Cola. Sometimes designers will provide a meal for the girls and boys working for them, especially if the show is during or around a meal time. And these treats can range from healthy salads and sandwiches from some designers to pizzas delivered backstage, courtesy of the designer's credit card.
How environmentally friendly is Fashion Week?
It really depends on what you're comparing the event with. If we're talking a Greenpeace conference, then Fashion Week doesn't look particularly green. After all, look at all those discarded goodie bags, all those miniature champagne bottles and the waste from the various shows.
However, it does seem that the organisers of Fashion Week are trying to tidy up their act. But perhaps it is similar to the greening of our own homes: it's best left up to the individual. Fashion Week delegates, if you're reading this, don't just chuck your goodie bags on the ground. Think about where all the rubbish is going!
Do designers have to pay for what goes into the goodie bags?
Fashion Week is a complicated web of sponsorships and sub-sponsorships. Firstly, the whole event is obviously sponsored by Air New Zealand and then there are corporate sponsors in every other sphere too - such as non-alcoholic beverages, alcoholic beverages, mobile phone providers, beauty products and so on and so forth.
Then each designer must find a sponsor for their own show and generally the Fashion Week rules say this should not interfere with other sponsorships already in place.
One of the things designers are able to do is to place some of the sponsor's product into their goodie bags, which are then handed out to the most important buyers and media at the runway show. Which is good for both the sponsor and the designer.
Of course, some designers try even harder than this - they may spend their own money on some appropriate gifts (Trelise Cooper often has one-off items, such as brooches or evening bags made) or even make some little giveaways themselves (designer Kristine Crabb once made silky lingerie for her guests).
Is it really as glamorous as it sounds?
Yes and no. Fashion Week can be hard work for many of the people involved, especially those who work on the shows or who attend every day (like your hard working Herald team). They put in 12-hour or more days to get the job done, shows produced, makeup on models, stories written.
On the other hand, if you're going to just one or two shows - you get dressed up, then you hang around afterwards drinking the sponsor's champagne and gossiping - well then, yes indeed, it can be a fairly glamorous sort of event.
How much does it cost to put on a fashion show? Can anyone do it?
It's hard to estimate but in New Zealand the costs are in the tens of thousands. Taking part in a group show will obviously cost a label less than putting on a solo show, which will set you back anything from around $30,000. Which is why getting a friendly sponsor onboard to help foot the costs is imperative for most designers.
Designers need permission from the governing body of Fashion Week to show. They need to know the work is of a certain standard in order to keep their event up to a certain level of quality.
How difficult this is varies from city to city. In Paris, it is hard to get on to the official schedule and it is important to be on it. In New York, many designers ignore the official schedule and media and buyers simply go to the shows they think are important.
In Auckland designers must also apply for permission but really, if you have a collection to show and you can afford it, you're pretty much guaranteed a place on the schedule.
What about the clothes? Who wears this stuff anyway?
For the time being, only the models will be wearing these clothes. Not even the fashion editors or designer's staff get to wear them. Most of the garments shown during the non-public part of Fashion Week are not due in the shops until next winter.
On the whole New Zealand designers are relatively retail-friendly. While the show might look outrageous, take the various looks apart and you are quite likely to find a sensible skirt or shirt in there somewhere.
It is also true that some designers make "show garments". These are over-the-top, attention-grabbing frocks to excite the show's audience. They may never be sold, they're just for this one show.
Having said all that, during the public days at Fashion Week various labels will be holding "in season" shows. This means that labels like The Carpenter's Daughter, Lucie Boshier and Annah Stretton are parading the clothes that they currently have in their stores. You'll be able to see them on the runway, then purchase them in those stores. Same goes for Karen Walker, who will also be holding an in-season parade.
What's all this hype and hot air about clothes really for? What is the point?
At first, it seemed that a New Zealand Fashion Week would be a great vehicle to promote our local designers overseas, to increase their international accounts and to get pictures into European or American fashion magazines. But over time this has changed. The international thing wasn't all that it was cracked up to be, it was tricky to get the big name media and buyers here every year - and individual designers seem to have found different sorts of success overseas all by themselves and using their own methods.
So these days the local - and the Australian - market is just as important. Getting your New Zealand buyers to the show and increasing your profile in the local media is just as important as gaining more small but meaningful international accounts.
And most of the designers also report that their retail sales go up enormously during Fashion Week, something they should be particularly pleased about this year after a hard season, economically speaking.
Why can't I go?
Because, despite all the hype, Fashion Week is essentially a glorified trade fair for the clothing industry. And as such, only members of the industry get to attend the full shebang. However, the organisers have noted the general public's interest in the event as well as the potential to earn some money from this sort of interest. Which is why we get the public open days during the weekend. And you get to have fun - and go shopping - which is something Fashion Week delegates don't get to do.
