KEY POINTS:
Ten reasons to love pinot noir and ten pinot noirs you'll love.
1. TASTE THE PLACE
Pinot noir is the red grape variety which most reflects the place in which it's grown, or its terroir as it's known in France. Its sensitivity means that it can be remarkably varied within regions - and in some cases, as in its heartland of Burgundy, even within individual vineyards.
Quartz Reef Bendigo Estate Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2005 $80
When Rudi Bauer planted pinot noir in the then uncharted territory of Bendigo he had no idea of the style of wine that would emerge. Five vintages on and the vineyard is revealing itself as the source of muscular but elegant wines. You can taste the rocky soil in this pinot, backed by robust tannins and intense brooding dark fruit.
Available direct from www.quartzreef.co.nz
2. IT'S GOT SEX APPEAL
As well its beguiling perfumed dimension, there's a whiff of the animal about pinot noir with its often gamey and earthy character. One of the most sensual of grape varieties, it gets the guys comparing it to the curves of a woman and the girls high on its vinous pheromones. Phew!
Julicher 99 Rows Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006 $29
Julicher's 99 Rows is a bit of an earthy beast. It's savoury and seductively spicy, with fresh velvety textured berry fruit, a hint of dark chocolate and a faint trail of smoke.
From Artisan Fine Wine, Caro's, La Vino, Nelson and Simich, Manly Liquor, Hamilton Wine Company.
3. EMINENTLY ELEGANT
Power can be confused with quality, which means as a lighter-bodied variety, the subtle charms of pinot noir can often be overlooked. Its strength is in its finesse, and while delicate it can at the same time be amazingly intense. Think Grace Kelly rather than Paris Hilton.
Alana Estate Martinborough Pinot Noir $60
With new winemaker Chris Archer at the helm, Alana Estate's wines are scaling new heights. Its refined and racy 2006 demonstrates his light touch, with quite a burgundian feel to its silky acid core supporting pristine fruit and notes of meat and spice.
From Brano's Wines & Spirits.
4. INCREASINGLY AFFORDABLE
Being something of a prima donna, requiring labour intensive treatment and low yields to produce decent fruit, pinot noir will never make the cheapest wine. However, as more pinot noir comes on stream in the country there's now a plethora of lower priced pinots on the market.
Shepherd's Ridge Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 $16.99
Cheap pinot can often be less than cheerful, but there are some decent drops now available. Most are up around the $25 level, so at a mere $16.99 this Shepherd's Ridge pinot from the Wither Hills stable offers incredible value for money. Hand-picked, basket-pressed and aged in French oak, it's got plenty of juicy red berry fruit, attractive notes of forest floor and gentle spice.
From www.blackmarket.co.nz
5. FEEL THE TASTE
Texture is at the heart of good pinot noir. Silky, velvety, supple - all terms regularly used to describe pinot noir, a variety that's felt as much as it's tasted.
Anne Gros Bourgogne Pinot Noir, France 2005 $44
This pinot noir from the grape's heartland of Burgundy feels like cool silk as it runs across the palate, unfurling to reveal its wonderfully fresh and pure red fruit, threads of spice and savoury notes. Made by a producer that's impressed me a lot of late from a stellar vintage.
From Glengarry.
6. EXCITING NEW EXAMPLES
As pinot gains momentum in New Zealand, each vintage brings a wave of exciting new wines to our shelves. It may be hard to keep up, but more choice means you should never have to settle for a dull bottle.
Maude Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $32
Sarah-Kate and Dan Dineen left Australia's Tower Estate and Tempus Two wineries in search of the holy grail of winemaking, pinot noir perfection. This is the second vintage of their pinot, which is brimming with dense black cherry fruit and earthy, minerally undertones, ripe tannins, spice and a touch of tar.
From Caro's, First Glass.
7. FOOD FRIENDLY
An affinity with an amazingly wide variety of dishes makes pinot noir one of the most versatile varieties when it comes to pairing with food - from red meats, such as venison and wild boar, though game birds and duck, to meatier fish like salmon.
Gravitas Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006 $35.95
I'd have this with hare. It's a silky textured pinot that delivers elegant ripe cherry and berry fruit, notes of spice, savoury and forest floor supported by a fresh spine of acidity.
From Fine Wine Delivery Company.
8. MULTIFACETED
Making complex and multi-layered wines, pinot noir's effect when tasted has been likened to a peacock's tail as flavours slowly unfurl across the palate building to a spectacular finish.
Prophet's Rock Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 $50
Prophet's Rock is another great new find from Central Otago, with vineyards in Bendigo and Loburn. From just their second vintage, this is a rich, supple and well-structured pinot revealing complex layers of plush, ripe morello cherry fruit, toasty oak and thyme.
From Wine Direct, Liquorland Mt Eden, Wine Vault, Fine Wine Delivery Company, Big Daddy's Liquor Store.
9. LOTS OF LOCAL CHOICE
New Zealand is blessed with the cool climates required for pinot noir to shine. Now our most widely planted red variety, it makes a diverse range of styles from Auckland to Otago.
Kaimira Estate Vintner's Selection Nelson Pinot Noir $28-30
Don't forget Nelson when picking your pinot noirs as it's home to some of the best, as well as a number of very affordable examples, like this smooth operator. A pretty pinot with concentrated sweet berry fruit, floral strands and spice.
From Co-Pilot Distributors (09) 412 9137.
10. THE BEST GRAPE VARIETY IN THE WORLD?
Pinotphiles would argue that it's sans pareil, and it provokes more passion, prose and praise than arguably any other grape variety.
Main Divide Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006 $25.95
A savoury style from the second label of Pinot powerhouse Pegasus Bay, with dark plummy fruit and a hint of licorice and smoke lifted by a fresh acidity and a complexity seldom seen at this price.
From Fine Wine Delivery Company, Liquor King.
