Talent makes magic work

Mala Brajkovic. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

As former design assistant for Karen Walker, Mala Brajkovic has a lot of expectation weighing on her shoulders as she launches her own solo collection. While Brajkovic will no doubt grow out of the Walker reference, it's one she realises is inevitable at this stage of her career.

"People kind of latch on to the fact that I used to work for Karen Walker, which is fine," Brajkovic says.

"Working with her was probably the best grounding I could have had for starting my own business.

"I'm really lucky to have had the opportunity.

"It was such a busy, high-stress, high-energy environment. You quickly learn to become resourceful and efficient, and that's what is helping me cope now."

Although Brajkovic admires and respects Walker, she isn't planning to rest on the laurels of her former employer and mentor.

"While we obviously have a similar aesthetic, we have quite different personal style," Brajkovic says.

"As my designs for my own brand come directly from my own style, the feeling of our work is quite different."

Based on her childhood dream of becoming a magician's assistant, Brajkovic's debut collection is titled How's Tricks.

"Between the ages of about 5 and 7 there were a series of incidents that led to my original career choice of being a magician's lovely assistant.

"I saw my first magic show on television, a magic shop opened next to my mum's clothing store, and I went to a birthday party where I was chosen to be the magician's assistant."

What might have seemed a child's fantasy has provided Brajkovic with a charming concept that works well with this season's silhouette.

Exploring the themes of illusions and beauty, her collection is heavy on sharp tailoring, silk taffeta, and prints with a strong 80s silhouette - pinched waists, knee-length skirts and sharp shoulder lines.

"The range focuses on what I think are the most important pieces in every girls wardrobe - denim, hot dresses and beautifully constructed tailoring."

Having studied in Sydney and at London's St Martins College of Art and Design, Brajkovic has a strong technical background, which she says is this part of her business she enjoys the most.

"The one thing that I'm finding now that I'm working for myself, is that I've become a bit of a jack of all trades. There's no one to do the running around - I'm kind of doing everything."

Brajkovic plans to open her own store in the city later this month. To many it may seem like the hard road - most new designers begin slowly, stocking various boutiques before taking the risks associated with launching their own shop.

Brajkovic never contemplated that route, instead wanting to start as strongly as she means to carry on.

"I'm 29 and I'm ready to go out on my own. It's not something that I'd do as a side venture.

"I think going into retail is important when you are trying to create a brand as opposed to just creating clothes."

Although Brajkovic has a strong business sense to match her design flair, part of her knows that she is going to have to wait and see if the sort of success she is after will come her way.

"I know it takes dedication, hard work and great people working with you, but I don't really know what it takes for me personally to succeed in business because I haven't done it yet.

"Hopefully I'm on the right track and I get the chance to find out."