High Tea at the Zealong Tea Estate. Photo / Supplied
High Tea at the Zealong Tea Estate. Photo / Supplied
Dainty sandwiches, perfectly formed sweet treats, the finest tea — what a satisfying way to share an afternoon with your beloved, writes Anna King Shahab.
Ahead of Mother's Day next weekend, here are our picks of where to enjoy high tea. First, let's get something straight - or if not quite straight, then at least out there for debate.
"High tea" didn't traditionally refer to what is these days presented as such. High tea was an evening meal for the working class at the end of their working day. It was hearty stuff - bread and cold meat washed down with a cup of strong tea.
The fine china, the cakes and dainty sandwiches was the Victorian upper-class tradition called afternoon tea, a little something to tide one over until dinner, which was served around 8pm. It was generally enjoyed reclined on sofas and armchairs rather than sitting at a dining table.
In Australasia, "afternoon tea" is a loose term that refers to any afternoon break for refreshment - a quick cuppa and a biscuit, even. So it may be that high tea has been rolled in to add an air of formality to the occasion, to jazz it all up a bit.
It doesn't seem the misappropriation will fade, so the pedants among us will just have to deal with it. In any case, high tea has enjoyed a renaissance over the past decade. A few years ago the pickings were slim,but now numerous places offer fine examples.
La Fourchette
This St Heliers Bay eatery is combining macarons and cocktails in a Saveurs de France (flavours of France) high tea. It has commissioned six new macarons based on popular French drinks and is serving them with matching cocktails and a special Mother's Day high tea menu. Co-owner Romain Le Gal says each of the sweet meringue-based confections represents a taste of a region of France and is paired with alcohol typical of each region. The Saveurs de France macarons are made exclusively for La Fourchette and sister restaurant L'Assiette by J'aime Les Macarons.The menu includes ham and cheese croissants, mini vegetarian galettes (savoury buckwheat crepes), salmon en croute with creme fraiche, macarons and petit fours - usually mini-eclairs, raspberry mousse, profiteroles and lemon tartelettes.
• La Fourchette's high tea runs until the end of July for $60 a person. It is served daily from 3pm-5pm and reservations must be made 48 hours in advance. Vouchers can be bought at La Fourchette, 8c Turua St, St Heliers, ph (09) 215 8332.
Cocktails and high tea at La Fourchette, St Heliers.
Ostro
The surrounds are unmistakably modern but Ostro's weekend high teas are delightfully nostalgic with a clever twist by Josh Emett. Lamingtons are laced with violet, cucumber sandwiches come alive with dill and sour cream and mini-tartlets bear the zingy evidence of the Japanese citrus yuzu. Signature dish: the parmesan and paprika beignets prove savoury doughnuts deserve to exist.
• High tea at Ostro is served Saturday and Sunday, Seafarers Britomart, Tyler St, Auckland, ph (09) 302 9888. $55, $70 with a glass of Veuve Clicquot or $75 with a glass of Nicolas Feuillatte.
Thomas's Bach at Batch Winery
The views from Thomas's Bach at the top of a ridge in the middle of Waiheke Island are unrivalled and it has a pleasantly relaxed interpretation of high tea. The notion of "dainty" has been eschewed and the servings are robust - a big slab of delicious bacon and egg pie, a beautifully smoked fillet of salmon, and a whole tier loaded with homemade bread, local honey and cheese. It's a lot of food for two people, but you must save room for the top tier, which is the signature dish: smashed pavlova - oozing yoghurt-laced whipped cream and seasonal fruit compote.
• Seasonal offering with a Mother's Day high tea on May 10, Thomas's Bach, Waiheke, ph (09) 372 3223, $80 for two, including a glass each of Batch Winery's Fizz Sparkling Riesling. Courtesy coach meets ferry.
Fruit-infused Lamingtons and FIZZ sparkling wine at Thomas's Bach at Batch Winery.
The Langham Hotel
Undoubtedly the city's most renowned spot for afternoon tea, The Langham has it down pat: formal yet friendly service, executive chef Volker Marecek's delightful selection of items and it's now served on The Langham's own Wedgwood china. The selection of teas is superb. Signature dish: little Peking duck pancakes - can we have a dozen, please?
• Served daily, Langham Hotel, 83 Symonds St, Auckland, ph (09) 379 5132. From $54 or from $74 with a glass of Louis Roederer. The Langham has a special Mother's Day high tea package; call for more information.
Tiffin High Tea at The Langham Hotel with tea sommelier Carl Crasto.
The Heritage Hotel
Executive chef Jinu Abraham has risen to the challenge over the past several years of adding significant plant-based/vegan and raw elements to the hotel's cuisine. You now have the option of a regular or an entirely vegan high tea in the leafy surrounds of Hector's, the hotel's restaurant. Signature dish: the truffle mushroom tofu roll, which proves mushrooms really don't need all that cream.
• Served daily, 35 Hobson St, Auckland, ph (09) 979 7434. $40 or $49 with a glass of sparkling wine.
Hotel DeBrett
That DeBrett Kitchen offers high teas at the weekend is one of our favourite recent inner-city discoveries. This is the perfect way to unwind after a hard morning hitting the shops, or relax into a weekend break in the city. Signature dish: cream mini-doughnuts, delightfully naughty but daintily proportioned.
• Served Saturday and Sunday, 2 High St, Auckland, ph (09) 969 1545. $45 including a glass of Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV.
High Tea at Hotel DeBrett in Auckland.
Sofitel
You'll be greeted with a "bonjour" and seated either inside or out on the balcony. Both have a peaceful view to Lighter Quay and the surrounding apartment buildings reflected in the calm water. Sofitel boasts the talented Nick Honeyman as executive chef and his touch is evident in the items served here on wrought iron tiers. Signature dish: there are more inventive items, but the date scones are feather light.
• Served Saturday and Sunday, 21 Viaduct Harbour Ave, Auckland, ph (09) 354 7478. $35 or $55 with a glass of Champagne, or $45 (Mother's Day afternoon tea).
The Chateau
If you've always wanted to check out the iconic hotel at the foot of mighty Mt Ruapehu, visiting for high tea is a good excuse. The blazing fire, the huge window offering either a clear view of Ngauruhoe or a fuzzy snow-filled vista and the decidedly retro feel of the Ruapehu Lounge all add to the atmosphere. Signature dish: creme brulee - one of the best we've ever tried.
• Served daily, State Highway 48, Mt Ruapehu, ph 0800 242 832. From $23.50.
High tea at The Chateau.
Zealong
New Zealand's only tea estate also has its own restaurant and, naturally, high tea is on the menu. Select either the classic or signature tiffin, and every savoury or sweet morsel has the estate's tea in its ingredients. As you dine, you look out over the amazingly serene view of the estate. The signature tiffin is available as vegetarian, or gluten-free. The restaurant is also halal. Signature dish: the intriguing pure tea and white chocolate tart with dark tea shortcrust.
