Sweet as...

Alain Brumard Brumaire Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Novembre 2005. Photo / Babiche Martens

Until last December the delights of our dessert wines were denied to drinkers in the EU due to protectionist legislation that had been in place for years. However after a reform of their wine laws the restrictions have largely been lifted and the first New Zealand stickies are starting to make a splash on their shores.

What used to exclude our sweeter wines was the ruling that wines exported to the region had to have a natural alcohol content of less than 15 per cent. As well as including the wine's actual alcohol, this also took into account the potential alcohol the unfermented sugar that remained, which excluded out most dessert styles.

"This rule was always very silly," states John Barker, policy manager at NZ Winegrowers, who had been lobbying for change for years. "It applied to us, although they had exempted themselves and all the countries they had agreements with."

Now New Zealand's wines can come in at 20 per cent natural alcohol and are able to access some of the key exemption categories. However, some styles still remain beyond the pale, as Marlborough's Framingham discovered.

"At first we were excited as our UK distributor has always wanted to bring our Noble Selection in," explains Framingham's Andrew Headley. "But when we read the new rules we found out that although many New Zealand sweet wine producers will benefit, we will remain outside."

Framingham makes wines under 8.5 per cent alcohol, which, while widespread and tolerated in Germany, are still not permitted from us as the EU maintains its protectionist stance on low alcohol styles.

Despite this, the majority of dessert and late harvest wines can now enter the EU and important markets like the UK. "We showcased NZ sweet wine for the first time in the EU at our London Annual Trade Tasting at Lord's in January to a very receptive audience and got some great feedback," reports New Zealand Winegrowers' Frances Durcan. "While the production of New Zealand sweet wines is relatively small and likely to stay that way, because of the difficulty and risk in making them," notes Ngatarawa's Alwyn Corban, "the wines produced are of very high international quality and an important contributor to the New Zealand portfolio."

Europe is home to some of greatest sweet wines: France's sauternes, Germany's trockenbeerenausleses and Hungary's tokajis. While we may be making world-class dessert wines now, that they account for just a tiny percentage of our production means they're no threat to these traditional stickies.

Far bigger peril is that all dessert wines are too often overlooked by contemporary wine drinkers the world over. Hopefully our small steps into the region will generate some discussion and interest that reminds everyone again that this is a category that offers some of the highest quality and most competitively priced wines available today.

Sweet harmonies

When to drink a dessert wine is a question that keeps far too many from exploring sweeter styles. As well as pairing them with puddings, I often opt for a glass instead of dessert. However, they can also work surprisingly well with savoury fare, such as pate and strong cheeses. And even with spicy dishes, as I recently discovered in a seminar led by Chinese wine critic, Simon Tam.

Though I'd still be nervous about putting the finest dessert wines with very hot food, sweetness does indeed mitigate heat.

Sticky sauvignon

Spy Valley Noble Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $19.99

While quite a lot of the growing array of sweet savs can lack varietal character, there's no mistaking this fresh and affordable example with its tropical notes of passionfruit and mango and herbal undertones. Try with a Thai curry for a superb synergy between sweetness and heat.
(From www.spyvalleywine.co.nz)

Divine nectar

Church Road Reserve Hawkes Bay Noble Viognier 2008 $35.95

A decadent drop with a soft and unctuous palate oozing honeyed apricots, marmalade and butterscotch. Great with richer desserts.
(From selected grocery outlets and www.churchroad.co.nz)

Lesser known pleasures

Alain Brumard Brumaire Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Novembre 2005 $45.50

A rich and spicy sweetie from the underrated appellation of Pacherenc du Vic Bilh. It starts with a luscious surge of toastiness, vanilla and ripe orchard fruits and ends with a grapefruit mineral twist. Fabulous with foie gras, rich pates and stronger blue cheeses.
(From FWC in Albany and www.lifestylewines.co.nz)