Standing patiently in line for Walker show

Karen Walker's collection at London Fashion Week received great feedback from both buyers and the press.

The well-groomed scrum queuing for Karen Walker's evening show at London Fashion Week was a curious sight.

Fanning themselves with their invitations, fashion-goers waited impatiently outside one of the more unusual Fashion Week venues, the Baden-Powell House youth hostel in Kensington.

Photographers and those at the top of fashion's pecking order gathered in the lobby for Malibu cocktails and colourful cupcakes.

The 90-minute wait for the show to start was one of the longer delays of the week. But once inside, the audience seemed enthralled as catwalk supremo, the flame-haired Lily Cole, and Rod Stewart's daughter Ruby marched down the runway to the Pixies' Subbaculture .

Like many shows at both New York and London Fashion Weeks, the simple dress was a signature note of Walker's sassy and streetwise collection, Karen in TV Land.

The Auckland designer's dresses ranged from straight and slim-fitting styles to prom-style outfits. There were strong colours - a tobacco-coloured, chunky broderie-anglaise dress modelled by Stewart was a highlight, alongside Walker's trademark chiffon-printed dresses. Waists were everywhere, often cinched in wide, black satin bows or bow-shaped belts.

The collection also featured puffball skirts and denim shorts with braces. Jeans were skinny, high-waisted and pin-striped.

Walker had replaced the Prince of Wales blanket check that dominated her British autumn/winter collection with smaller and simpler geometric checks, in muted blue and beige. These appeared on socks, sundresses, cardigans shirts and belts. Notes of bright teal, pea-green and orange also made a showing.

Recently described by industry website Fashion Capital as London's answer to Marc Jacobs, Karen Walker continues to attract a who's who of the British fashion world to her shows. In the front row this time were designer Zandra Rhodes, Marks & Spencer boss Stuart Rose, New Yorker writer Michael Roberts and fashion authority Colin McDowell.

Following the show, it seemed the earlier delay was not forgotten but was certainly forgiven. "Did you enjoy that?" a woman asked her male colleague as the crowd spilled into the lobby. "I didn't enjoy waiting," he mused. "But it was worth the wait."

Others agreed. "There was good direction and depth - she has really established herself on the London schedule," said Harrods creative director Susanne Tide-Frater.

The Independent described the show as "a really, really strong collection - beautiful prints, exquisite dresses - sweet without being saccharine and always with an edge to it".

Walker said feedback from both buyers and press had been excellent.

"Everyone is very excited about the range and so many people are saying it's the best one yet, which is of course what a designer always wants to hear."

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