KEY POINTS:
Girl talk
The major look of the new season is femininity in all shapes and forms. Think spring florals, floaty chiffon, playful ruffles and a full-skirted silhouette reminiscent of a 1950s housewife. The girlish mood is romantic, fresh, ethereal, and best of all, fun and flattering. Look out for:
Florals
Yes, again. The florals of winter reappear for spring, only this time the trend is even more ubiquitous. Expect nearly every single collection to feature a botanical reference of some kind, whether it be the bold floral prints at Karen Walker, vintage-looking flowers at Juliette Hogan, busy florals at World or the delicate florals at Kingan Jones. Kate Sylvester does the floral of the season with raw-edged skirts and dresses featuring an almost painterly-like print. To update the look for spring, wear florals together a la Dries Van Noten - bold florals teamed with more delicate prints.
Full-skirts
Channel your inner 50s housewife with this popular - nipped in at the waist - spring silhouette, as seen at Kate Sylvester, Trelise Cooper, Sera Lilly and Sabatini. Keep it from being too old-fashioned and saccharine by teaming it with another of the season's key looks, the masculine blazer.
Fluid lines
Fabric that flows is ever present throughout all the local collections, whether it be floaty chiffon or smooth silks. Miss Crabb showed her signature draping at a fashion show last week, which featured plenty of wet-look dresses that rippled as models stormed the runway.
Ruffles
Extreme girlishness appears in the form of ruffles this season, with the tiers of fabric showcasing a designer's skill at cutting. Romantic ruffles appear everywhere at Karen Walker; underwear, swimwear, dresses and sleeves are given sweet silk ruffle detailing at Kate Sylvester; and Chelsea Thorpe's collection plays with layers of romantic chiffon fabric tiers. Keep ruffle detail to a minimum, and wear ruffled dresses short so as to not overwhelm your frame.
Lighten up
Pastels freshen up the season and are in contrast to the gothic look that is also popular. Key colours to look for include grey, violet and lots of white. Chambray also returns for spring, with the casual light-wash denim appearing at Sylvester, Jaeha, Zambesi, Workshop Denim and Twentysevennames.
Wear this if...
* You've recently had a desire to make a D.I.Y. flower headband
* You own actress Zooey Deschanel's album as part of the band She&Him
* The Virgin Suicides is one of your favourite films
BLACK MAGIC
Winter's tough and slightly intimidating gothic look softens up for spring. Gone are the PVC pants, the oversized studs and zips galore: the new spring Goth is more brooding than angry. Rodarte's intricate black frocks teamed with ripped woollen stockings are the ultimate in soft Goth. The look almost verges into grunge territory, with leather, black lace, plaid and bodice detailing all making an appearance. Key looks include:
Black lace
Prada's Fall 2009 collection brought luxurious lace back into the spotlight and made it sexy again, with prim and buttoned up lace dresses looking more coyly erotic than old-fashioned or bogan. Stevie Nicks' favourite fabric seems to be a popular choice with our local designers - Lonely Hearts' range features plenty of feminine black lace, Kate Sylvester's royal inspired collection has gorgeous tops and dresses made of bold lace in black and white, and up-and-coming label Salasai has intricate lace. Best to keep it simple and streamlined when wearing such a complicated fabric - or toughen up the delicate fabric with a masculine blazer or leather jacket.
Black
OK, so it's a tad silly naming black as a "trend", because well, it never goes away does it? But we're talking about the Gothic look here, so it would also be silly not to mention it. So yes, black is back. Balenciaga sent out structured black dresses for Fall 2009, and Alexander Wang's collection for Fall focused around the moody hue. Make black interesting and modern by wearing different textures and interesting detail: Zambesi's black fluffy mini skirt is the perfect example.
Bodices
The tough bondage trend from winter develops into a softer look for spring, with lingerie and bodice style detailing on dresses and tops. Lonely Hearts make good use of the trend with their collection, which features plenty of vintage corsetry, underwear inspired pieces and corset tops. Zambesi, Stolen Girlfriends Club also play with the look, both giving it a tough edge.
Plaid
Pattern is big for spring, most of it pretty and delicate, but the ubiquitous plaid print is bold and fresh. Jaeha, Kingan Jones, Kate Sylvester and more have each done their own take with plaid. This plays up to the heritage look - headscarves, military jackets, oversized checks - that is big internationally right now. Expect it to trickle down over the next few seasons.
Wear this if...
* Black is your favourite colour. Always.
* You love anything by Tim Burton: Beetlejuice, Edward Scissorhands, Sleepy Hollow, The Nightmare Before Christmas.
* You have no desire to hide your inner bogan.
BEST OF THE REST
Blazers
The casual fashionista's favourite, for spring the blazer is casual and preppy instead of tailored and uptight. The boyfriend jacket adds a nonchalant edge to any outfit, whether thrown over a floral dress or worn with the more structured looks of the season. Take your pick from Deborah Sweeney's oversized boyfriend jacket, Karen Walker's tailored tux jacket, Kate Sylvester's oversized blazer, Jaeha's deconstructed jacket with a twist, or the cute cropped tux from Sylvester. It helps add weight to the whimsical prettiness that runs through most of the collections.
Sleeveless jackets
No, it's not a waistcoat. They may look similar to vests, but sleeveless jackets are just that: jackets without sleeves. Longer than a traditional waistcoat, the sleeveless jacket should be worn cinched in at the waist and elongated. Proenza Schouler's belted and buttoned version is key; locally, Carlson, Zambesi, Sherieyvonne, Salasai and Kingan Jones have all done a version.
Maxi dress
Floor length gowns aren't the easiest of looks to pull off, especially if you're vertically challenged. But designer's continue to push the look, with more than ever including one in their range. Cybele's gorgeous lotus print maxi dress references two looks of the season, the maxi and fluid lines; Trelise Cooper has included many in her ranges, and Kate Sylvester's floor-length dress, inspired by Kate Moss, can be tied-up to become knee-length.
Bohemian
This has been massive internationally, with designers from Gucci to Matthew Williamson and Jean Paul Gaultier mining a folky, bohemian vibe. Think opulent prints, fringe detailing, fur and rich jewel colours. Surprisingly the look hasn't really taken off locally, but there are still references for those who want to channel their inner bohemian: try Cybele's lotus prints, Kingan Jones' patchwork full skirt and dress or MAW's mixed printed frocks.
