KEY POINTS:
Strange events are taking place in the world of wine. Some will put it down to global warming or subtle climate fluctuations, others will shrug their shoulders and say it's the industry cowboys being reckless. What's happening is a globalisation of varietals - experimentation on a level not seen before.
Indigenous grapes, previously thought to survive only in a certain country under certain conditions, are being tested on the other side of the world, often with surprising success. Tempranillo is a case in point.
Spain's classy indigenous, early-ripening, red wine grape makes juicy wines for drinking young, but can mature well in a rich, usually oaky, style.
It's the variety that puts the spine into a high proportion of Spain's respected reds and is the most widely planted grape variety in the superstar Rioja region in the rugged north-east of the country.
Tempranillo has a level of versatility other grapes can only envy. It's thick-skinned and capable of making deep-coloured, long-lasting wines. Being an early-ripening variety has no doubt given it an added edge and the ability to thrive in the often-harsh, intense climate of Spain.
Some Australian regions are having remarkable results with tempranillo and following close behind is New Zealand, mainly at Trinity Hill vineyard in that eternal hothouse known as Hawkes Bay.
It's an ideal blending mate for grenache (garnacha in Spain), but it is more than capable of going solo, where it exhibits a generous mix of flavours - strawberry, tobacco, blackberry, vanilla and spice. Australia's Brown Brothers initially produced tempranillo in small quantities and sold it only at the cellar door.
It has been a runaway success, production has been stepped up and it's now being released here. Others have followed. A good food wine, it works well with roast duck, game, sausages, casseroles and lamb.
Perfect for those winter comfort meals and, of course, those traditional Spanish dishes, paella and tapas. There comes a time when you need to try something different, otherwise it could be a long winter.
RECOMMENDED
2005 Brown Brothers Tempranillo
Savoury characters and very fine tannins. Medium-bodied with lovely integrated fruit and oak. Entry level.
Price: $19
2005 McHenry Hohnen Tiger Country
Tempranillo shares the spotlight in a blend with petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. Aromas of chocolate, liqueur and spicy berry fruit. From Australia's Margaret River region, it's rich and complex.
Price: $32
