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Having followed the fortunes of Martinborough's wines from foreign shores for years, my first visit to the region was a revelation. Given their large reputation, I'd not really taken on board the size of the place. I marvelled at its diminutive scale, where most of its tiny vineyards are a short walk from each other.
"Small is beautiful" could be Martinborough's mantra. It's something that not only applies to its geographical proportions, but to its predominantly boutique players and the production size.
A mixture of Martinborough's lean gravel soils and climate means that its vines regularly produce very small quantities of grapes. In recent years this has been exacerbated by the growing regularity of severe frosts, which reduced crop levels in 2003, 2005 and 2007.
"The incidence of spring frosts has risen greatly since 1992," notes long-time Martinborough player, Neil McCallum of Dry River. Short vintages are hard on small wineries, some of whom have struggled to maintain supply and cash flow.
"Small crops are a double-edged sword," observes Ata Rangi's Clive Paton. "It gives you concentration and extraction, but the downside is that you have to manage your finances carefully as you could get three bad years in a row."
As the district that put New Zealand pinot noir on the world wine map, one thing it has in spades is experience with its main grape, pinot noir, and the vine age that's so closely linked to the variety's longevity. It's also home to some of the country's most talented winemakers and leading wineries, such as Dry River, Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyard and rising star Escarpment.
It may be small but what it has to offer is diverse. "I don't believe you can pin down the Martinborough style," thinks Palliser's Richard Riddiford. "The region is making a range of styles, which makes it interesting."
Speaking to Martinborough pinot pioneer, Escarpment's Larry McKenna, some years back, he maintained that at that point style in Martinborough pinot was more about human influence than differences between sites. However, McKenna's latest project looks set to prove that the region's sites are ready to speak for themselves.
In what has to be one of the most exciting launches of the year, Escarpment has just released its "Martinborough Insight Series": three new pinots sourced from single vineyards across the region, which join Escarpment's existing Kupe Pinot from its own estate Te Muna Road vineyard.
"I think it's time to start defining Martinborough as a region through single vineyard wines," states McKenna, and these four fascinating pinots each show a very different expression of the variety derived from where their grapes were grown.
After a number of tough years, Martinborough's vignerons report that this year's harvest is looking promising. Yields are respectable, with Wines From Martinborough chairman Roger Fraser going so far as to propose that this could be the best vintage the region's had in a decade.
Great things are happening at Martinborough. And with a decent-sized crop in tank and barrel, its wineries should be satisfied that, from the 2008 vintage at least, there will be more Martinborough wines to go round.
GREAT WINES FROM A SMALL REGION
Escarpment Voyager Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006 $65
While all the Insight pinots are deeply impressive, the Voyager is my favourite. Sourced from one of the region's oldest vineyards, it's a complex and elegant expression with pure and fragrant dark fruit, rose-like florals and exotic spice over earthy and minerally notes and a backbone of ripe tannins. From Fine Wine Delivery Company, Caro's.
Pond Paddock Hawk's Flight Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006 $33
Despite some very short vintages in recent years, Martinborough has also somewhat miraculously been the source of a number of some great value pinot, like this example from Pond Paddock. It's a soft and supple wine with sweet and juicy plum fruit, nuances of new leather and some nice weight and richness. From Fine Wine Delivery Company.
Ata Rangi Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $24-32
Martinborough isn't just about pinot noir. It also makes chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc, its most widely-planted white variety which tends to produce a more herbaceous style here. Ata Rangi's is one of the best, with layers of ripe greengage, citrus, fresh herbs and plenty of palate weight from a portion fermented in older barrels. From Truewines, Don Johnson's, Bacchus Cellars, Scenic Cellars, Accent on Wine.
