Small but perfectly formed

2008 Martinborough Te Tera Pinot Noir. Photo / Martin Sykes

Martinborough isn't likely to ever compete with the vastness and volume of Marlborough, the swagger and confidence of Hawkes Bay, or the excitable aggression of Central Otago. It is, and is likely to remain, the mouse that roared. Martinborough exudes a quiet confidence and its wines, found on some of the finest dining tables in the land, often speak with a restrained eloquence.

Some of the country's best winemakers and hard-case characters can be found there, over the Rimutaka Hill, about 75 minutes' drive from grey, bureaucratic Wellington.

One of them is Palliser Estate's Richard Riddiford, who looks like a cross between a rugged, old-fashioned All Black rugby forward, and a dapper Lord of the Manor with a mischievous twinkle. We sit across from each other at a long table, festooned with about 80 wines from the region. He grins and says, with a touch of nonchalance, "Wine never tastes so good as when it's free - and after 10 o'clock at night everything tastes great." Martinborough, along with neighbouring towns Gladstone and Masterton, constitutes what is known as the Wairarapa Wine Region.

The climate is semi-maritime, influenced by the long coastline to the east and south. The region produces just 2 per cent of New Zealand's wine, not much, granted, but the locals are quick to point out its boutique scale and low crop levels deliver sublime wines. There is some fine sauvignon, syrah, riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris and gewurztraminer, but it's Martinborough's pinot noir that has grabbed international attention.

The roll call of the region's supreme pinot producers is impressive: Ata Rangi, Craggy Range, Dry River, Escarpment, Margrain, Martinborough, Nga Waka, Palliser Estate, Te Kairanga.

Keep an eye on the new emerging hot shots - especially Wairarapa's tiny Brodie Estate, where the mantra is: "Cool, calm, collected".

Recommended

2008 Martinborough Te Tera Pinot Noir
Second-tier wine from a serious pinot producer. Great value for money. Aged vines delivering mature, silky elegance in a glass. Plum, cherry, dark fruits and chocolate. Warm, inviting.
Price: $32

2007 Palliser Estate Chardonnay
A litany of flavours with a fresh, lively, vibrant feel. Big peachy and ripe citrus aromas follow through on the palate. Lovely balance, creamy finish.
Price: $28