Slung Anchor, Mangonui

By CARROLL DU CHATEAU for canvas

When friends told us that at last there was a decent restaurant at Mangonui, near Cooper's Beach in Northland, we were delighted. Mangonui is rapidly becoming one of the most idyllic little seaside villages in the country, and after an excellent cup of coffee there one morning, followed by a browse through the menu which looked promising, we decided to book for dinner at the Slung Anchor.

Despite an ozone-induced appetite, Robyn and I opted for mixed salads ($5.50 each) to start. Although they were designed as side salads, they were well above the usual standard, with a delicious dressing and liberally sprinkled with macadamia nuts. Barb's calamari, which arrived in a high stack of rings, was tender and delicious. The sauce was a notch above bottled sweet chilli, too, while Brian's chicken livers ($13) were cooked exactly enough to be tender and moist without the least hint of rawness.

This was a fine beginning we thought, surveying the historic room with its butter-coloured, match-lined walls and glimpse of the sea outside. The tablecloths were white and thick, the service excellent, our fellow diners speaking with interesting accents.

The wine list was shortish, but offered an excellent range of New Zealand wines, perfect for tourists. We decided on a bottle of Babich Shiraz ($40) chosen mainly for the duck, lamb and chicken livers, but which went well with the bluenose, too.

Along came our main courses, and for me, a sharp decline. The special, duck breast ($29.50), arrived cut into small pieces and arranged in a circle around a pile of mash. The duck was rubbery -- crispy skin, followed by a layer of fat, followed by a layer of underdone duck.

Brian's lamb ($27.50), was stuffed with a sunflower seed pesto. While Brian liked it, I felt it ruined a perfectly good piece of lamb. His only complaint: the serving was too small.

Barb and Robyn, on the other hand, thoroughly enjoyed their fabulously fresh bluenose fish of the day ($28.50).

For dessert we shared a chocolate tasting plate ($12), which included chocolate brownies, a chocolate pie plus a couple of chilled truffles. The chocolate lovers declared it okay, though it could have done better with some garnish, definitely a blob of whipped cream.

On the whole, the meal was fine, but expensive for what we got. Although the place had a nice feel, mashed potatoes are hardly a sophisticated accompaniment and prices were right up there with city venues where restaurateurs are paying big rents. On the other hand, it's good to have a restaurant of this quality at a seaside resort and with a few judicious changes, they could definitely score more points.

Ambience

Relaxed but upmarket, slightly historic, seaside feel.

Cost

$228 for two entrees, two side salads, four main courses, one dessert to share, two gin and tonics, a Steinlager, a glass of Lindauer, a bottle of Babich Shiraz, a coffee and two teas.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.