Sirocco, Browns Bay

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

It was the spoiled Auckland brunchers' version of Goldilocks and the Three Bears. The first Browns Bay cafe we considered had the ambience of a downmarket lunch counter: plastic tables with heat rings and stiff-backed chairs. The second smelled like smoke and beer. The third was groovy, all mismatched chairs and dub music, but too noisy for comfortable conversation.

The last had a lovely view of Rangitoto and the beach, sophisticated decor, comfy booths, and an entertaining attempt at an African theme, with dishes named after exotic animals. Sirocco tasted just right.

We started with drinks, a tropicana smoothie ($5.90) for Tim (thick and creamy with chunks of pineapple and plenty of passionfruit), a tall mochaccino ($3.50) for Natalie (a tad too sweet), and a hot chocolate ($3.50) for me (close to perfect).

It wasn't long before our meals arrived, beautifully arranged on square white plates. Natalie's anaconda toast ($8.90) was, disappointingly, not grilled snake, fascinating as that would have been, but ordinary french toast topped with bacon and maple syrup. She was not convinced by the banana's presentation — cut in half with the skin on and fried on the other side — but pronounced the dish delicious.

Tim's Tarzan breakfast ($11.90) was your usual round-up: bacon, eggs, sausage, mushrooms, grilled tomato, toast and the classic triangular frozen hash brown. Two complaints: the bread was hardly toasted and therefore stone cold when it arrived at the table, and there was no sauce or chutney for the sausage, even when he asked.

I received the prettiest meal, the cheetah omelette ($8.90), filled with my pick of goodies. I chose ham, tomato and cheese and was well pleased with the freshness of the meal, including the vivid yellow eggs, which must have been free range. I ate it all up.

Service: Pleasant but minimal; you order at the counter
Ambience: Burbs meet the jungle by the beach

Parking: Plentiful

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.